Archives for April 2009

Ta Phin Village, Vietnam

Not far from SaPa there is a very beautiful village called Ta Phin. A visit there is sure to be memorable. As we arrived at the village, the word had already gotten out that a group of tourists was on its way. As the bus parked, the local women seemed to decide which of them was going to be accompanying which one of us on our walk through the village. When we got off the bus, it was easy to see they were delighted to meet us, and most delighted that we might, at the end of the tour, buy some of their wares.

Happy to see us

Happy to see us

Greeters in TaPhin

Greeters in TaPhin

The village is one in which the Dao people live.  They are one of the 54 ethnic minority groups that live in Vietnam.  Many of these minority groups also live in China, particularly in Yunnan Province which is north of Vietnam.

In this village, many of the women speak rudimentary English and chat with visitors as we make our way past the homes and fields.  Although the head coverings the women wear vary, this is a matter of choice rather than custom.  Some women simply find the close to the heard carves more comfortable and others like those that sit

high on the head.  So often, we Westerners imagine there is significance in others’ customs, but just like us, they too have their own preferences and choice.

Our group walks into the village

Our group walks into the village

We walk past the rice terraces and fields.

Walking past the fields

Walking past the fields


The second woman from the left has a baby on her back. You can see his little head with a hat peeking out over the top of the blue carrier.
View from village

View from village


Sitting on a rock

Sitting on a rock

These people live amidst such beauty, and although from a Western standard, their living arrangements are far from elegant, one has the feeling that these people are happy and content. The Vietnamese government has put virtually every village on the electric grid and there is free education provided for children in the elementary grades. The people see improvement from year to year in their standard of living.
Life in TaPhin

Life in TaPhin


Beautiful

Beautiful

This picture has been reposted to Work of the Poet

A tour of TaPhin will leave you speechless too.

The Great Wall of China

The Great Wall of China began as a series of fortifications to ward off invaders from the north. The first parts of the wall date back to the 7th century before the Common Era. These walls, built by a number of small kingdoms, were finally joined by China’s first emperor, Qin Shi Huangdi whose Qin Dynasty dates from 221 BCE. Qin unified China and instituted standards for road width, for currency, and for language, uniting the disparate kingdoms.

Over the centuries, portions of these walls have fallen into disrepair and much of the wall that remains was constructed during the time of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Recent investigation has shown that the wall is actually 1,586 miles longer than previously thought. It is 8,850km (5,500 miles) long.

A visit to the Great Wall, of course, only provides the experience of a small part of it. One of the sections that is visited by tourists is just outside of Beijing.

The Great Wall of China

The Great Wall of China

Even when first viewed, it is an amazing structure. It became all the more amazing as we came to know it at closer range. The section of the wall that we arrived at was even with the parking lot. However, to the second tower, there were approximately 1200 steps. Even for those who are fit, the combination of the heat in the summer and the very steep uneven steps presents a challenge for someone who wants to climb to the top tower.

Look at these steps!

The height of one step

The height of one step

My husband has one foot on one step and the other on the next one! At this section of the wall, one is literally crawling up the steps! This section is across a bridge from where most of the tourists walk. Aside from the problem with the height of the steps, they are not uniform in height, so if you aren’t careful, it’s easy to fall. Just look at the view downward on the tourist area of this section.

View looking down the steps!

View looking down the steps!

But look at the view one gets when climbing!

View from the Great Wall

View from the Great Wall

In the summer of 2007, I was lucky enough to be able to take my granddaughter, Hadas, to Beijing with me. One of the more memorable days was the day we went to the Great Wall.

Hadas at the Great Wall

Hadas at the Great Wall

Hadas made it to the top of the 1200 steps. You can see her peeking out from the roof.

Hadas at the top!

Hadas at the top!

She did a lot better than I did! On that trip, for some reason, I was huffing and puffing my way up the steps, but felt fine coming down– until I heard someone ask me “Do you know what your name is?” I didn’t get why someone was asking me this, but only later realized I had probably hyperventilated and was actually starting to pass out! In a couple of minutes I was fine, but I am certain that Hadas remembers the day with just a little bit of fear mixed in.

Recommendation: Don’t rush up the Great Wall. It’s been there for thousands of years. It will still be there ten minutes later.

TaVan, Vietnam

TaVan is a village outside of SaPa.  My first visit there was on a cloudy, misty day.  Somehow, the mist fit the entire atmosphere of the village as people in their traditional dress walked with us across the hanging bridge and over the muddy paths.

Bridge in TaVan

Bridge in TaVan

Village of TaVan

Village of TaVan

This village is a home to two different ethnic minorities, the Black Hmong and the Red Dzai. In addition, located in the village is a school at which children from the surrounding areas board Monday through Friday, and then return home to their parents on weekends. There is now free compulsory education for children throughout Vietnam from ages 6-10. We were lucky enough to arrive just as the children were getting out of school. We were able to meet them and were shocked at their linguistic prowess!

Young girl, TaVan

Young girl, TaVan

This little girl greeted me and asked me, in English, where I was from. I responded, “Israel.” I was surprised that she spoke English. After all, here we were in a rural village outside of SaPa which was outside of Lao Cai which was nestled in the mountains of north Vietnam, along the Chinese border. But more surprising was when she said to me, “Shalom, Chamuda!” [Hello, Cutie!] in Hebrew, using the feminine form… I almost fell over! On our walk, I spoke with her about what she was studying and I asked her how she would have responded if I said that I was from France or Italy or Germany or Spain– and each time, she had a prepared response. Amazing!

The adults and the children accompanied us on our walk, steadying us when we were walking over muddy terrain, and at the end, of course, they strongly urged us to buy things they were selling. The tote bags were attractive, ethnic, and very inexpensive. Who could say no?

Walking through the village

Walking through the village

The people were warm and friendly and the experience in TaVan was memorable. There is a guest house in TaVan for trekkers who say they have also enjoyed the friendliness of this very picturesque village.

Just outside of SaPa

When we travel to Vietnam, one of the highlights of the trip is our visit to SaPa. We leave from Hanoi in the evening and take a sleeper train north to Lao Cai. Lao Cai is not far from the border with China and as we make our way from Lao Cai to SaPa, the landscape is magnificent. There are majestic mountains and many of them are terraced to grow rice.

Rice is produced in several areas of Vietnam. There are two main river deltas: the Red River Delta and the Mekong Delta. Both of these have fertile soil in which rice is grown. In fact, one way of conceptualizing Vietnam is as one of those poles with buckets on both sides. In the northeast, the rice bucket is the Red River Delta and in the south, it is the Mekong Delta. However, in addition to those two regions, rice is also grown in the mountainous areas of the north. As in China, the terraces are carved into the mountains as if by artists. These terraces are planted by hand and then flooded with water until the rice is sufficiently mature to be picked. In Vietnam, as in China, rice production is not yet mechanized.

Here is one picture:

Rice Terraces near SaPa

Rice Terraces near SaPa

This picture was taken in the morning as the valley was filled with sun. On this tour, we had two groups traveling together, mine, an English speaking group and Rita’s, a French speaking group. In this picture you see me and Rita– what she lacks in height, she more than makes up for in personality and warmth!

Rita and Rona near SaPa

Rita and Rona near SaPa

Coming up: Some pictures from villages of minority groups in the SaPa area.

A “Jewish” mosque in Xian

One of the cities I love to visit in China is the city of Xian. It was one of the capitals of China and it is the place where Qin Shi Huangdi, the first emperor had his Forbidden City. It is just outside of Xian that his tomb is located and one day soon, I will talk about it and about how it is one of the wonders of the world.

But today, I want to talk about the mosque. You see, in China, beginning with the spice and silk traders, there arose a community of Jews. This community was documented to exist in the 12th century, but probably was much older. It consisted of Jewish traders and often the local Chinese women they married. As did every other Jewish community, they built a synagogue. The synagogue was built in the style of important Chinese buildings, incorporating the elements of feng shui. It was largely a rectangular garden whose sides were longer and whose front and back were shorter– with a series of gates beginning at the front that led through three courtyards, all beautifully planted, toward the back with small structures in the center that one could walk through. Along both long sides, there were buildings in which there were places for caretakers of the synagogue to live, places to wash ones hands (and probably mikvaot), and places for receptions. At the back, there was a large building which was the place where the services were held. Unfortunately, the synagogue was located not far from a river that would overflow from time to time and several times during its history, the synagogue was destroyed.

There were, however, sketches of the synagogue done by a Jesuit Priest, Father Matteo Ricci who met the head of the community when he, Ai Tian, went to Beijing, hearing that there were other people who read the Bible and worshiped one G-d. There was some misunderstanding as Ai Tian believed that Father Ricci was Jewish and he even went so far as to ask Father Ricci to become their Rabbi! Father Ricci traveled to Kaifeng to visit the synagogue and ultimately made the world aware of the community.

By the mid 19th century, the synagogue fell into disrepair and by then there was no rabbi serving the community. No one but the rabbi knew how to read the torah. The community sold their sifrei torah which can now be found in many places throughout the world.

So what does this have to do with a mosque in Xian? The mosque was built as a near replica of the Kaifeng synagogue.

For this reason, a visit to the mosque is a “must” if one wants to understand the experience of the Jews who once lived in China. Here are some pictures of the mosque in Xian that was built in a similar manner to the synagogue in Kaifeng.


The first picture is of the entrance gate to the mosque/synagogue. The second picture is of one of the gates to an internal courtyard. The third picture is of the plaza outside of the main building where wedding ceremonies were held, where sukkot were built, and which was decorated with flowers on Shavuot!

There is much more to learn about this community and about Jews in China through the ages. One place to get a taste of it is here.

Hello world!

Welcome to a blog that will be taking you to China, Vietnam, and Cambodia. Not only will I be talking about the rich cultures of these three magnificent countries, but I will be talking about the wonderful warm people, the beautiful sights, and the very special experiences of traveling there– and remaining able to eat freshly prepared, healthy kosher food! You can find a list of our tours here

The Summer Palace, Beijing

The Summer Palace, Beijing

Come back and see me and join in the adventure!

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