Our time in Cambodia was magical. There were magnificent edifices, beautiful scenery, and the kindest, most beautiful people to meet. We stayed at a hotel that had a lovely swimming pool, surrounded by tropical plants. Each day we would leave in the morning after breakfast on the terrace beside the pool. we would see magnificent things, and we would return to the hotel for the hottest part of the day. Some of our people swan, some read books, some napped, and some went to the market just next door to the hotel. Later we left for our afternoon excursion and then returned to the hotel for dinner on the terrace.

Two of the evenings we were in Cambodia were particularly memorable. On one evening we ate dinner out of the lawn beyond the swimming pool where there was a stage set up. They brought out two round tables and set them adding flowers and candles and they served our food to us there. As we ate, we were treated to a full performance of lovely Cambodian Dances. Here is a short glimpse at what it was like.

Here is some more dancing by the lovely Cambodian ladies.

The night was truly magical.

But there was yet another night that had its own magic. Outside our hotel were cyclos — drivers who has motorcycles with a cart attached to the back. We all took cyclos into town to the night market. It’s a beautiful market with lots of wonderful things to buy– jewelry, clothing, and all sorts of objects produced locally. For us, though, the highlight was the massage that our feet got. Here’s the sign:

Doctor Fish

The small fish eat the dry skin on one’s feet and the sensation is totally hysterical. Here we are enjoying the experience

In short, our tour, although off to a rough start, turned out to be the tour of a lifetime!

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One of the last places we visit in Cambodia is one of the most amazing places in the world. We go to Tonle Sap which is the largest lake in Southeast Asia. Tonle Sap flows into the Mekong Delta for part of the year, but when the waters of the Mekong, coming from as far away as Tibet, rise in the spring, the flow of water reverses as the Mekong Delta overflows back north into Tonle Sap. The area of the lake in dry season is 2,700 square kilometers. During the rainy season, from June to October, its area increases and gets up to 16,000 square kilometers! This shifting of currents, bringing fish up from the Mekong Delta to the lake provides enormous numbers of fish and those fish account for 60% of Cambodia’s protein intake.

The homes around the lake and on the lake are small and virtually unfurnished. Some are up on stilts to prevent them from being flooded. Other people move their homes on trucks to other areas before the waters rise. This is possible because their construction is light and simple.

Here are a couple of homes:

Home on Tonle Sap

Notice contents of home: clothing and a TV

Of course some people choose to live on the lake in houseboats and the schools too are located on boats.

Children in the basketball court at their school

There are grocery stores that are on boats too.

For those who would prefer home delivery, there are also boats that sell fruits and vegetables.

Service to your door

Life on the lake seems to be pleasant for this child who was just about to go swimming.

Anyone want to join me?

We travel on the lake in a motorized boat. Of course, on this trip, nothing was predictable, so it almost didn’t surprise us when the engine gave out and we were sitting stuck on the lake. The weather was lovely. The sun was just starting to descend giving a golden glow to the water. There were other boats. No one panicked. Eventually, after trying to start the motor a large number of times, the young boy who was assisting the pilot waved down another boat of the same type, threw a rope to them, and tied us to the other boat. We then were towed most of the way to the dock with the engine finally starting as we arrived there. After all, we had had days with no adventure. It was time.

Our travelers were a wonderful group and we all left the lake having had an enjoyable time. What they didn’t know was what was in store for them in the evening. Next time: two fabulous evenings in Siem Reap. You won’t want to miss them. Once you see them, you will sign up for our next tour!

Continuing…

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A short digression from our tour…

I am about to show you a place that stands as a metaphor for what happens when we don’t pay attention to the little things. There are all sorts of metaphors that we use. We talk about things that you don’t pay attention to coming around and biting you in the back. We talk about a cancer left unchecked and the destruction it can ravage. Well, here is the standing proof of this idea.

Ta Prohm was allowed to remain as it was found (although there is still some construction going on there.) Take a gander at what nature has done to this temple.

The spong tree that ate Ta Prohm

Yes, indeed. It’s unbelievable. Small seeds found their way into the roofs of these temple buildings. As time went by, the seeds sprouted roots that sought soil. And yes, they made their way down the building into the ground and at the same time grew high into the sky.

My husband standing near some roots

Another tree

Standing among these trees and looking at what they have done to the temple, one is completely amazed. All of this happened when small trees were allowed to grow from the roofs unchecked. As one looks at the other temples, one can see the beginnings of trees- little branches with leaves protruding from the roofs. Much of the preservation work that is constantly being done at the other temple complexes has to do with removing these small invaders before they cause destruction.

Still stunned by Ta Prohm, we made our way to one of the more beautiful temples, perhaps the most beautiful temple of Angkor, is Banteay Srei, the women’s temple. It’s an almost pink color with exotic carvings. Like most temples, it had a formal entrance and was surrounded by a moat. Most of the temples we visited didn’t have visible moats, but Angkor Wat and Banteay Srei did.

In the moat

You can see a very different style in this temple.

Approaching the entrance

Detail of entrance gate

And here is a little of what one sees inside. This temple is a real favorite and therefore full of visitors. It’s really something very special to see.

Inside of Banteay Srei

Our local guide explained to us the rationale behind the design of this temple. Its components are the same as others including a library and a prayer hall and other chambers. But in this one, the separate buildings represent parts of the body– the trunk, the legs, the arms, and the head. Fascinating!

Next time: some of the people we saw and the largest lake in Southeast Asia and its amazing ability to change fundamentally twice each year.

Continuing…

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Angkor Thom is a temple complex that dates from the late 12th century. It is nearby Angkor Wat, but of a different vintage and it contains elements that differ greatly from Angkor Wat. Although its architecture is similar, the emphasis is less on Hindu tales and tradition.

The word Angkor is Khmer for “city.” Angkor Thom is thought to have been a city of between 80,000 and 150,000 people. It was built by the Khmer king Angkor Jayavarman VII as his capital city. One inscription found in the city refers to Jayavarman as the groom and the city as his bride.

Angkor Thom is surrounded by walls on all four sides with a total of only five entrances. One of the most visited temples in the complex is the Bayon Temple.

Bayon Temple, Angkor Thom

As you can see, the restoration of the Bayon Temple is under the auspices of UNESCO and sponsored by Japan. All of the temples are constantly in a state of restoration, a necessity that you will understand better when I show you Ta Prohm. In this case, the temple is being restored because many of its structures have been damaged and they are being rebuilt with original materials that were found at the site. Of course it is a bit like assembling a 100,000 piece jigsaw puzzle with pieces that could either be from it or from other puzzles and so the identification of which stones were from which structures is only the beginning of the job. They are doing a magnificent job as each year I see more and more of the construction.

Here is what Bayon temple looks like as one approaches.

Walking toward Angkor Thom

The Bayon Temple, like Angkor Wat, has massive bas reliefs. However, instead of mythical battles, these bas reliefs are taken from the daily life of the people and as one walks around the base of the temple, it feels as if one is peering through windows and watching people go about their daily life.

Bas relief, Bayon Temple

Looks like a class to me!

The most interesting feature of the Bayon Temple is the carvings of faces. There are faces wherever you look.

How many faces do you see?

Of course, one of the things that happens is that people get quite creative with their photography (or if not, they watch others and get ideas) and so here’s a picture of my husband rubbing noses with one of the faces.

Up close and personal

Climbing up and seeing the temple from all different levels is fun and interesting and every once in a while, there’s a surprise, like these people dressed in traditional Khmer costumes. Our people enjoyed having their picture taken with them.

Happy people!

Visiting Angkor Thom was a lot of fun and we enjoyed seeing many of the temples and structures in its complex. However, nothing we saw prepared us for Ta Prohm! Next time…

Continuing…

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By now, I am sure that you have forgotten the details of our arrival in Hanoi. To give you just the important facts, I will remind you that we waited for a very long time to receive our visas, even though the group visa application form had been mailed from Israel and it was approved in Hanoi and mailed back to Israel, and even though we all filled out the required forms and attached relevant photos (relevant being the kindest adjective I can think of for passport photos, but I digress.) While all this was happening, I asked if we had to fill out any other forms. I seemed to remember a form that we needed to hand over as we entered the country even though by then we had our visas. At first I was told yes, we must fill it out and so I asked for the appropriate number of forms. Then I was told, no, we really didn’t need it. We all got through passport control and then waited a very long time to have all of the lost baggage forms filled out. Only after that did we leave the airport.

“Well, what’s the relevance?” you might ask. As well you should.

At the time we were leaving Vietnam via the airport at Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC)/ Saigon, we checked in at the desk, got our boarding passes and proceeded to security and passport control. About half the group had gone through and I purposely waited to be the last in case there was any problem. It was a good thing. For first one and then another of the people in our group had been stopped and asked for the form that we had never filled out which should have been stamped at entry. Of course the fact that half the group had gotten through without it made me certain that this was not an insurmountable difficulty. One of the passengers was very concerned. “Suppose they never let me out of Vietnam…” Um, right. I said, “Don’t worry; I’ll take care of it.”

I may have mentioned that my Vietnamese consists of thank you and Pho? (and Pho doesn’t come in handy all that much.) But still I realized that anything is possible if one believes it is. (Well, not anything but this should be). I told all of the people who were not allowed out to come to my line and I picked the kindest looking clerk. I pointed to my yellow hat and said, “I am the leader. We entered Vietnam without filling out any forms, but we all have visas. We have no forms to give you.” I am pretty certain that he didn’t understand one word of what I was saying, but he smiled and nodded his head and he allowed everyone through.

And so finally we were on our way to Cambodia.

Cambodia is an amazing country. If China farms out its work to Vietnam where workers are paid less, then Vietnam farms out its work to Cambodia where there is real poverty. Vietnam is a country on the move. The educational system is constantly improving and children are encouraged to study and achieve. Cambodia is not there yet.

Of course Cambodia is still reeling from its years under the Khmer Rouge when an estimated 1.7 million Cambodians were killed or died as a result of the cruelty of their own people. This was at a time when the entire population of Cambodia was only about 7 million. The country suffered such trauma that it is only this past year that the first trial of a Khmer Rouge officer commenced. There was debate as to whether the trial should be held because of the issues of retraumatizing the population.

But arriving in Cambodia, one sees green fields and blue skies and people with sweet demeanor and once there, one falls in love with the country.

We stayed at the Apsara Hotel, on the main road from the airport to the city, not far from the temples of Angkor. After a lovely dinner in the garden overlooking the pool, we all went to sleep and bright and early the next morning, we headed out to Angkor Wat.

Angkor Wat means the temple of Angkor. It is only one of many temples built from the ninth to the thirteenth centuries. It is perhaps the largest and certainly the most well known. In fact, it is the only building that appears on its nation’s flag.

To say that it is impressive is an understatement.

My husband in front of Angkor Wat

Another view with all five towers showing

We had a very nice local guide, but he didn’t seem to understand that hearing the story of the Battle of Lanka in excruciating detail was not necessarily our cup of tea. It did, however, provide excellent background for understanding the multitude of bas reliefs that decorated the temple. If the construction of the temple itself had not been impressive, and believe me, it is astounding, the bas reliefs alone would have made the visit mid-boggling. They are intricate and they go on forever.

One detail of the devil fighting the monkey

a larger section

And here is a look at the intricacy of the construction

In the interior of Angkor Wat

Detail of one of the towers

It took 37 years to build Angkor Wat– which is an amazingly short time considering its size and intricacy. However, there are some who estimate that about 300,000 workmen were engaged in building it! More info is available here.

Sorry I didn’t get around to Angkor Thom, but that’s for the next time. OK?

Continuing…

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After a wonderful shabbat, our group was ready to discover the wonders of the Saigon night market. Now I am sure that in a city the size of Saigon, there are probably tens of markets, but this one just happened to be about 3 blocks from our hotel, across Le Loi Street from Chabad, a very convenient location. It consisted mostly of clothing, shoes, luggage, handbags, and jewelry. The prices were very good.

The night market

After buying a sufficient number of items, we had to buy a suitcase to put them in… Actually, that really isn’t the truth. We had bought a very cheap suitcase a couple of years ago and by this point on the trip the luggage handlers had pretty much destroyed it, so it was time to get a new suitcase and the one we found was large and not so heavy and seemed practical. However, it does seem to me that you can’t really leave this market without buying a serious amount of stuff, if only T-shirts for souvenirs.

In the morning, after a good night’s sleep and breakfast in the roof garden, bright and early, we made our way through the traffic and the rubber plantations to Cu Chi. Cu Chi is where the Viet Cong had constructed an entire city under the ground. They were able to live there undetected by constructing a series of tunnels at three levels, by directing their cooking smoke through enough conduits that by the time it emerged, it was barely detectable, and by constructing entrances that were invisible to all but those who had placed them there. They had entrances from under the river and through tiny holes in the ground that were completely covered up most of the time.

The opening, in time of war completely covered by leaves

The soldier emerges

We were treated to a tour of the Viet Cong’s instruments of torture and death. They certainly were innovative. There were any number of traps where if a soldier was caught, he would pray for death. It did eventually come because they made sure that the stinging edges of their spikes were also able to infect or poison the soldiers. Of course, when asked, the Vietnamese will all tell you that the war is over and this is another time and there is no reason for any bad feelings.

What was a bit disconcerting was that from time to time we would hear shots fired. There is a rifle range adjoining the area we were touring. It made for some not so pleasant authenticity.

We made our way from Cu Chi to an amazing place. How can I describe it? Well, perhaps only through pictures. In the 1920s a new relgion was founded called Cao Dai. Here is some information about it. Their main temple in Tay Ninh is quite impressive both outside and inside.

Cao Dai Temple, Tay Ninh, Vietnam

The religion attempts to unite all religions and to emphasize kindness toward people and toward the world. High priests are strict vegetarians, and all adherents must follow a moral code.

Inside the temple

During the service which includes chanting, playing of bells and gongs and the people prostrating themselves, visitors are asked to watch from the balcony. Wearing shoes in the temple is forbidden and so a large pile of sport shoes and crocs waited for us after the service.

During the service

Since Cao Dai incorporates several religions, there are priests representing each of the three major contributing religions, they are dressed in red- for Christianity, blue- for Taoism, and yellow- for Buddhism.

Here is another photo of the worship at the Cao Dai Temple.

Worshipers at the Cao Dai Temple

Next: What is Angkor Wat? and why is it special? and what is Angkor Thom? and aren’t all Cambodian temples alike? Find out the surprising answers next time…

Continuing…

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When we returned from the Mekong Delta, we had enough time to get ourselves ready for a relaxing shabbat. What a delight to be wth Rabbi and Mrs. Hartman at Chabad for services and shabbat dinner! It was wonderful seeing that there is a community developing among people who had until recently been isolated. We enjoyed eating and singing and hearing stories about life in Vietnam. Shabbat morning too was enjoyable.

When we returned to the hotel, we put on comfortable shoes and headed out to see some of the sights. First we walked to the post office (fortunately, on a previous tour, we done this excursion during the week, so I have photos)

Post Office, Ho Chi Minh City

The post office is, of course, from the period that the French were in Vietnam, and so the architecture is European. In fact, the French reproduced the Notre Dame Cathedral just across the street.

Notre Dame, HCMC

We then walked on to the Palace of Reunification. This had been the Presidential Palace of South Vietnam when Vietnam was divided. Inside, now, there are reception rooms and the building is used for ceremonial purposes. However, they have retained the furnishings and equipment that were used in the Palace during the war, including the war maps and communications equipment.

The Palace is very impressive.

The Reunification Palace, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Here is the former presidential office

Former presidential office

Here are some reception rooms. All are decorated in exquisite taste.

Reception room

Reception room

After our lovely walk, we returned to the hotel to change (those who wanted to) because it was already time to go back to Chabad for Mincha and Seuda Shlishit!

After a wonderful shabbat, we made havdalah and bade farewell to Chabad and went back to the hotel to get our money because Saturday night was just made for shopping!

Next: Come along with us to the Saigon night market, learn how the Viet Cong defeated the US Army, and see for yourself a most colorful and interesting religious group and their Disneyland-like Temple!

Continuing…

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After a brief (very brief) stop at one of the tombs of one of the emperors, we got onto a plane and left for Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC). This is the name given to Saigon when the country became one after the US withdrew all of its troops. However, the name never really caught on in the south and people who live in Saigon call it Saigon. Even those in the north and central part of the country are more likely to refer to the city as Saigon. But, officially, it is still called Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC).

Saigon is a bustling metropolis. It is large, noisy, and full of activity. The streets are full of motorbikes and motorcycles which are the chief method of transportation in the city. And it is lucky that more people can’t afford cars because there would simply not be any room for them. At schools, parents line up outside on their vehicles to pick up their one, two, or three children and transport them home on their motorcycle/motorbike. It is not unusual to see three people on a bike and I have seen up to five.

Crossing the street is an art. One of the most important things that a guide in Vietnam must do is to teach his/her people to cross streets. It is not something for the faint of heart.

Saigon traffic

Saigon on wheels

Here’s the trick: You wait until there’s a slight break in the traffic (that’s the best it ever gets) and then you walk into the street and keep walking. Yes, motorcycles and motorbikes are coming at you, but you don’t stop. Ever. You see, they watch you, gauge how fast you are walking and cross either to the front or back of you, but stop and guess what happens? That is why when I take my people across the streets the first couple of times I sound somewhat strange as I repeat the entire time, “Walk, walk, walk, walk, walk, walk, walk, walk, walk, walk!”

So, after arriving in Saigon, we went to our hotel and shortly afterwards, set off for Chabad where we ate dinner. If you want to know about Chabad Vietnam, you can find them here. But only I can tell you how kind and friendly and warm and welcoming the young Rabbi Hartman and his lovely wife, Racheli are. In the short time they have been there, they have accomplished amazing things– building a community where there was nothing– having 50 people (NOT including our group!) for shabbat dinner, and starting a nursery school. Israel TV made a documentary about their arrival in Vietnam which you may be able to see (not always available) at this location.

The next morning we set out for the Mekong Delta. You may have heard of the delta, primarily in regard to the Vietnam War (which they call the “American War”), but the size of the delta is quite amazing. It is 39,000 square kilometers (15,000 sq miles). Compare that to Israel, 20,329 square kilometers (7,849 sq miles)!

Along the delta, there are floating markets. Here people bring fruit and produce and sell or trade it each morning. They advertise their wares by hanging them from bamboo poles on their boats, much as one would hang a flag.

Selling potatoes

Selling rambutans

You can read about rambutans here.

We enjoyed watching the local cottage industries using the available produce and making puffed rice (it’s fabulous to watch), rice bars, rice paper, and coconut candies. It was all fascinating. Then we enjoyed cruising around the byways of the delta.

On the delta

On the delta

We also enjoyed a private concert of Vietnamese music which we listened to as we sampled new and different fruits.

House concert

Next time we answer the question: What do a post office, Notre Dame, and the Reunification Palace have in common?

Continuing…

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Yes, folks, we are back for our next adventure, but first let’s carry on with this one and then I will tell you about the next one.

We drove through the Hai Van Pass, a very impressive ride when the weather is clear. Unfortunately, the weather was rainy and foggy, so all we saw was the condensation on our windows and the fog in front of the bus which made us gasp from time to time.

By the time we got to Hue, it was already time for me to go to the restaurant to supervise dinner. My husband went on with the group to the Perfume River and the Thien Mu Pagoda, both of them very lovely.

The kitchen staff was wonderful, anxious to please. Of course, having no common language offered a bit of a challenge, but how could I become frustrated when they took me to the special room they had set up for us with Israeli flags on the tables?

So, I watched carefully and as usual, checked every item that was used in the preparation of the food. One man sat for over an hour sculpting carrots and this was the result:

Artistry in food

When served at the table, it looked like this:

Pineapple, carrot, and garlic creation

The next morning, the light rain continued and we took a walk through the wet and slippery, but very beautiful Forbidden City in Hue, dated from 1804. The city is reminiscent of the Ming Dynasty Forbidden City in Beijing, China, but the architecture is more delicate and understated. Here is one of the gates:

A gate in the Forbidden City, Hue

We walked through gardens and saw beautiful buildings.

The Forbidden City, Hue

The Forbidden City, Hue

And then before we knew it, we were on our way to the big, bustling city of Saigon, officially known as Ho Chi Minh City.

Next stop: The Mekong Delta as you never imagined it.

Continuing…

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After a wonderful day in Halong Bay, we woke up the next morning ready for our next adventure. Our guide, Mrs. Phuong, was originally from Halong Bay and she knew all of the most picturesque places. She took us to a fishing pier that was truly amazing. We saw beautiful displays of vegetables and marveled as fisherman brought in piles and piles of creepy, wiggling fish. There were all sorts of fish, some we’ve seen before and others we hadn’t. There were long silvery fish and short pink ones. And most of them were still moving.

And soon, so were we. We drove back to Hanoi and boarded a plane for Da Nang, the airport located about a 40 minute drive from Hoi An. I have written about Hoi An before here. It is a very beautiful city and it is a wonderful place to relax. There are a number of beautiful resort hotels.

Hoi An has a rich international tradition evidenced by the Chinese and Japanese structures that still grace the city. I was fascinated by the Chinese assembly halls. When the Chinese came to live in Hoi An, they were, in a sense, not unlike my relatives when they arrived in the US as immigrants. My relatives and other Jewish immigrants of that era were able to make it economically with the help of their “landsmen,” people who came from the same area of eastern Europe that they did. Here in Hoi An, people coming from each province of China had their own meeting hall and there they would network, talk of home, and help each other. Here is the Fujian Meeting Hall.

Fujian Meeting Hall

Of course the big attraction in Hoi An is the Japanese Bridge, probably the only bridge that has a temple built into it. It is a footbridge and off to one side in the middle of the bridge is a room where people can pray. Here is the bridge from a distance.

The Japanese Bridge

Hoi An is the place where many tourists have clothing made to order for themselves. They have exquisite silks that they make into ao dais and other types of clothing, but let’s see what the locals wear in Hoi An.

Rodger in a sporty topper

Thelma and Louise like to dress alike, but no one mistakes them for twins

Seriously, even the pets dress to go downtown.

And while in Hoi An, we saw a wonderful folklore show and some of the lovely silk lamps that the city is famous for!

Silk lamps in Hoi An

But soon, through the rain and the fog we made way
Climbing up Hai Van pass to the city of Hue!

Next: Artistry in food and a wet visit to a Forbidden City

Continue…

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