Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lijiang, China

I happen to think that Lijiang is one of the most magnificent cities in the world. It’s not just because the old city is made of finely carved wood and restored meticulously, it’s also because it lies amidst some of the most beautiful scenery in the world.

The focal point of the city is Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. It is a mountain that has numerous legends and for the local Naxi people whose language, Dongba, is the world’s last remaining pictographic language, it is a holy mountain. It is easy to see how this mountain would inspire awe. It has thirteen peaks and seems to resemble a dragon lying down. From afar, it is magnificent and a ride up the cable car to the point beyond which one may not climb is an amazing experience.

One way to enjoy this mountain is by viewing it from Black Dragon Pool Park. Without its magnificent views, the park would be well worth visiting because it is landscaped exquisitely and contains buildings and bridges and live music. Adjacent to the park is a museum of the Naxi people that houses all sorts of fascinating artifacts. A visit there is worthwhile if only to hear about the Dongba language and see how it works. You can also watch the embroidery of intricate silk ties. These ties take two months to embroider as complicated geometric designs are embroidered by hand with painstaking accuracy.

With the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the background, it is a most picturesque and impressive place to visit.

Here are some of the views.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (in background)

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (in background)

A closer view of the mountain

A closer view of the mountain

On the pond

On the pond

The other side of the bridge

The other side of the bridge

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Rice fields outside of Guilin, China

One of the most beautiful sights is that of a rice field. I have seen rice fields and rice terraces at various locations in China and in Vietnam. No matter how many I have seen, they all are captivating. They are beautiful, lush, and serene. The fields change as they first host gorgeous verdant seedlings and then tall green grasses and finally they turn into fields of gold.

All the rice that will be planted at the same time is started in a large clump, somewhere in the field. When those rice seedlings become mature enough to be transplanted, they are planted in perfect rows. In China and in Vietnam, virtually all of the work or rice production is done by hand and during both planting and harvesting season, the fields are filled with workers. The rows they plant are amazingly straight and perfectly spaced. The seedlings are planted in water that shimmers under their beautiful green stalks. As they develop the rice seeds, the fields turn a magnificent yellow/green. Even at harvest time, the fields are picturesque as the dry stalks are gathered.

Here are some pictures to enjoy.

Rice field near Guilin, China

Rice field near Guilin, China

Harvest time, October

Harvest time, October

Rice fields with Karst mountains in background

Rice fields with Karst mountains in background


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Lion Grove Garden, Suzhou, China

A visit to a Chinese garden is an experience everyone should have. Chinese gardens are exciting and lush, while at the same time relaxing and inspiring. They are full of contradictions and full of surprises and mostly, full of beauty.

All traditional Chinese gardens share four elements: buildings, stones, water, and plants. Chinese gardens are a microcosm. The stones, collected for their sizes and shapes, sometimes put in creeks for a period of a year or two or three to refine their shapes, represent mountains. The ponds represent the seas. Unlike the gardens we see in Europe that consist chiefly of plants, these gardens combine the textures of plants and stone and wood and marble and stucco. Unlike the gardens of Europe that feature lots of flowers in brilliant colors, Chinese gardens are shades of green, colored by the leaves of their trees. Unlike European gardens which are manicured and symmetrical, Chinese gardens are wild looking and full of variety.

Today I will show you some pictures of the Lion Grove Garden in Suzhhou, China. Suzhou is known as a garden city or “Venice of the East.” Indeed, Marco Polo reputedly so named it. The city has canals like Venice and being poled through the canals of Suzhou is a uniquely beautiful experience. Suzhou is home to many magnificent gardens. The Lion Grove Garden is only one example. It once belonged to the grandparents of the noted architect, I. M. Pei. A visit there is something that can refresh and renew you for years.

A place of tranquility

A place of tranquility

A walkway in the garden

A walkway in the garden

Always new views

Always new views

Looking across the pond

Looking across the pond

A surprise view from a hole in a rock

A surprise view from a hole in a rock

A tranquil view of the pond and the walkway across it

A tranquil view of the pond and the walkway across it

Come join me in China for a tour of some magnificent gardens!

Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

One of the most fascinating places I have traveled is Tibet. Having gone to cities with progressively higher altitudes in the days before arriving in Tibet, the group was prepared for the rarefied air of Lhasa whose elevation is 3650 meters (11,975 feet) above sea level. Normally visitors are unable to tour on the first day there and must rest, but we “hit the ground running” much to the consternation of the local guide who thought he would have the afternoon and evening off.

I had many adventures in Lhasa and took a large number of photos. One of the most interesting places we visited while there was the Sera monastery. It was founded in 1419, during the Ming Dynasty and the name means “wild rose” in Tibetan. It was named Sera because the hills behind it were filled with wild roses at the time it was being built.

It may be only a coincidence, but the young monks who now study there wear robes that are rose colored. A study session of theirs is fascinating to watch. They gather outside, under the trees in dyads or triads. They refine their knowledge of their faith by asking questions of one another. The questioners stand and the answerers sit. If the answer is deemed good and satisfying based on the traditional sources, the questioners indicate that through a hand gesture signifying approval. If not, they continue to question. Questions are punctuated with slaps on the questioner’s arm. To the observer, it is a somewhat disconcerting sight. Some are standing, some are sitting, there is lots of noise as all of the dyads and triads are constantly speaking, and there is an unpredictable cacophony of slaps.

It is, however, both fascinating and beautiful. Here are a couple of images:

Monks at Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

Monks at Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

Monks sharing a moment at Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

Monks sharing a moment at Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

A Buddha in Hangzhou

Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words. In this case, one statue of a buddha is worth a thousand statues of little babies. This one is installed in a walking area in Hangzhou, China. This area contains some very interesting elements including a number of bronze sculptures of people living their daily lives in China. It also contains the oldest Chinese pharmacy still in existence.

Like other places in China, this area in Hangzhou is unique and well worthwhile a stroll, even on a dreary day.

Now here are two pictures of the Buddha

Buddha statue in Hangzhou

Buddha statue in Hangzhou

Buddha statue from another angle

Buddha statue from another angle

What you might not know about China

1. Most people think that because China is a populous country wherever you go there are hundreds of people. In fact, the streets of China are no more crowded than the streets of Jerusalem or Washington or London. In addition, the Chinese people love gardens and so there are vast gardens in the center of cities throughout China including Beijing and Shanghai. They are enjoyed by local residents as well as visitors and always feature a pond or larger body of water.

2. Many people think of China as a harsh place. In fact, the Chinese are friendly, welcoming people. They love visitors from overseas and they enjoy using whatever English they have to make conversation. They are warm and kind people.

3. People worry about anti-Semitism when they travel. They won’t find it in China. Chinese people think of Jews as the other great ancient civilization and they admire Jewish scholarship, ingenuity, and ambition. In fact, Chinese parents are very much like Jewish parents in that they value their children and they value educating their children and will sacrifice everything to give their children an excellent education.

4. People think of Chinese music as discordant. It is not so. Chinese music is many different things. It is Beijing Opera, but it is also the haunting flute melodies that one sometimes hears when walking through gardens. There is no place in my memory that rivals the gentle flute music in the Good Luck Garden in Hangzhou. Walking there was a truly spiritual experience.

The Good Luck Garden

The Good Luck Garden

Also, there are wonderful innovative Chinese artists like this one.

In short, China is better than you can imagine. It is the perfect place to travel. Come along with me!

The Temple of Heaven, Beijing

The Emperor of China was thought to be the son of Heaven. He derived his authority not just by succeeding the Emperor before him from his dynasty, but from his performance as one who could care for his people. Primarily, the Emperor was responsible for feeding the people. A good year with good harvests and plentiful food would be an affirmation of the Emperor’s power. If there were bad years and people starved, the Emperor was seen as not deserving of the blessings of Heaven and his authority was in question. For that reason, the Emperors were highly motivated to pray for rains and good harvests.

Twice a year, from the Forbidden City, the center of Beijing, the crossroads of the world– after all, China calls itself The Middle Kingdom– the Emperor would make his way south with a large entourage of officials in ceremonial dress in a procession that would take three days (although in fact, it was only a couple of miles). During the time the procession was passing, people were to stay inside so as not to see the procession. Those who were by chance outside, had to fall to the ground and lie there with their faces down until the procession passed.

After a southward walk, the procession would turn east and then north again to enter the Temple complex. Once in the compound of the Temple of Heaven, the Emperor would make his way north and would spend three days fasting and praying before putting on special ceremonial garments and praying in the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests.

Here are some pictures of the complex:

The Imperial Vault of Heaven

The Imperial Vault of Heaven

Gate between Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests and Imperial Vault of Heaven

The Gate

The Gate

Our group August 2007 in front of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests

Our group August 2007 in front of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests

The Temple of Heaven, Beijing

The Temple of Heaven is not only a magnificent series of structures, but it is an amazing place to visit because at its heart is the heart of the Chinese people. In this place you can see and meet people and begin to understand what China is really about. These people are warm, friendly, and full of grace.

The environs of the Temple of Heaven contain areas where people meet on a daily basis and engage in exercise and games of all sorts. Of course, most of the people who meet and play in this open-air community center are older folks who are no longer working. They pay a minimal yearly fee and then have use of the park every day. Here are some of the sights:

Women exercising

Women exercising

Notice the “play equipment” is adult sized.

Women walking on pebbles

Women walking on pebbles

When we visit China, we make sure to take everyone for a foot massage. These women get their own massage as they walk in their light-soled shoes on pebbles cemented into the ground and protruding exactly enough to provide a therapeutic massage!

Ouch!

Ouch!

This woman made all of us think “ouch!”

Ribbon exercises

Ribbon exercises

This was a particularly lovely sight. Many of the women get their exercise by waving ribbons in beautiful intricate patterns.

Fan dancing in the park

Fan dancing in the park

In addition to Tai Chi, there is fan dancing, sword dancing and lots of other group activities. Western style social dancing is also done with old American tunes being played on large amplifiers. Some people also come here to play cards, chess, and mahjong. Some of the women bring craft projects such as crocheting and knitting. Sometimes they sell their items to tourists.

Of course all should be done accompanied by music!

Musician in the park

Musician in the park


Next time we’ll see some of the buildings in this large complex called “The Temple of Heaven.”

The Summer Palace, Beijing

OK, friends, time to get your suntan lotion, hats, and water bottles. Today we will visit the Summer Palace.

At the Summer Palace

At the Summer Palace

The history of the Summer Palace dates back some 800 years when the first emperor of the Jin Dynasty, Wan Yanliang, moved his capital to the vicinity of Beijing and built his “God Mountain Palace” at the present site of Longevity Hill. From then on, in accordance with Feng Shui, the area was developed by subsequent emperors with the basic elements of the hill and water. Over the years, the structures changed and the names of the hill and the body of water shifted.

By the time of the Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368), there was already an official Forbidden City in the heart of Beijing, and the Summer Palace became the place where the emperor and empress and their entourage would come for relaxation, particularly during the hot days of the summer. There was a lake and trees and as time went on more and more buildings.

Over the years, the Summer Palace has been destroyed twice. The first time, in 1860, Anglo-French forces invaded Beijing and ravaged two of the loveliest areas in the complex, Yuanmingyuan Garden and the Park of Pure Ripples. Because they most of the buildings were made of wood, nearly every building in the park was destroyed by fire. Only the few nonflammable structures such as bronze pavilions and stone pagodas were spared.

In 1888, Empress Dowager Cixi who had a reputation for enjoying luxury, diverted 30 million taels of silver that had been designated for the Chinese navy into reconstructing and enlarging the Summer Palace. She had the southern side of Longevity Hill laid out in imitation of West Lake in Hangzhou and the northern side built in the architectural style of Suzhou, one of the more beautiful cities in China, sometimes termed “Venice of the East.” Cixi gave the park its present name: Yiheyuan (Garden of Good Health and Harmony), known in English as the Summer Palace.

In 1900 when the Eight-Power Allied Forces invaded Beijing, the great temples rebuilt in the 1880s were completely demolished and almost every valuable object in sight stolen by the invading troops. In 1902, when Empress Dowager Cixi returned to Beijing from Xi’ an, she ordered the reconstruction of the park. According to historical records, she “rebuilt the Summer Palace with unbounded extravagance and opulence, spending some 40,000 taels of silver per day. Singing and dancing went on without end.”

After the revolution of 1911 when the emperor was overthrown, the Summer Palace became the private property of the young deposed Emperor Puyi.

Today the Summer Palace is a delight for the senses. Even on the hottest summer days, the breeze from Kunming Lake cools visitors. The willow trees and the parasols carried by visitors give it a look of Oriental elegance. Paddle boats for visitors, both domestic and foreign, make a visit there a pleasant outing. Visitors can imagine the elaborate meals served here, the receptions and the Western musical entertainment that served to amuse both the imperial family and their guests.

Here is Kunming Lake

Kunming Lake, the Summer Palace

Kunming Lake, the Summer Palace

There are a number of noteworthy sights at the Summer Palace. One is the Long Corridor, an outdoor covered corridor that extends 720 meters in length and contains over 8000 hand painted pictures of flowers, birds, and landscapes.

The Long Corridor

The Long Corridor

Another is the Marble Boat, a structure built by Cixi to symbolize the stability of the dynasty. Of course, not long after, the dynasty was ousted.

The Marble Boat

The Marble Boat

And last, for now, here is a picture of an indoor corridor. Notice that there are no two windows that have the same shape. On each of the windows, there is a picture painted and none of the pictures are the same either. The Chinese love variety.

Corridor behind lotus plants

Corridor behind lotus plants

Take it from me, the Summer Palace is captivating and one trip is not nearly enough.

The Private Area of the Forbidden City

The area behind the ceremonial part of the Forbidden City is where the emperor and his family and concubines and the eunuchs and servants lived. Unlike the official area where guests were greeted, ceremonies performed, examinations given, laws pronounced– where the terrain consisted of building after building with no greenery, the family area had greenery and at the very back, a lovely garden.

After passing the giant stone carving, to the north- in the direction we have been walking, there is a plaza and the entrance to the private area.

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This is simply a wall we walk by, but it stands out against all of the other walls we have seen in the Forbidden City which are “purple.” Now what the Chinese call purple, we might term terracotta, but the Chinese name for the Forbidden City is actually “the purple Forbidden City.”

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Even walking through the private area, it feels different– smaller in scale, quieter, calmer. It’s easy to understand why the emperor would want such a division between the official area and the private area.

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This is one of the bedchambers. It was probably used by one of the concubines. The emperor and the empress had their own buildings where they lived and the concubines lived in the equivalent of elegant dorms.

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This is the bridal chamber, the place where the emperor and empress would spend their first night together. Traditional Chinese beds are like elaborate boxes that have one side cut out. They have walls on three sides and a ceiling. It is possible to see it in both pictures above. In the bridal chamber, the bed is just to the left of the red column.

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Even in the picture, you can feel the release of tension as you see the softness of the flowers and trees in the imperial garden . The garden has a path running through it that is a kilometer long and it is made of mosaics that contain 720 pictures and patterns. Among the pictures are historical stories, people, and animals. The garden dates from 1417.

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This garden, like other formal Chinese gardens, contains the four essential garden elements: Buildings, water, greenery, and stones. Chinese people have always loved stones. They think of a garden as representing the world and the stones are the mountains. They also like to choose stones that have shapes reminiscent of animals. In this garden, they have taken stones from other places in China and piled them one on top of the other to form “the Hill of Accumulated Elegance.”

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A beautiful and fascinating place to visit– and I only have scratched the surface.

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