Rona & Aaron’s Excellent Adventure, Part 2

…to see what happened earlier, go here

So we were airborne. Of course the luggage could not have made the flight. We had run over, under, around, and through and the baggage simply could not have been identified and transported that fast. It was all right. There would be another flight that night? the next morning? We’d be fine.

And after about two hours, we landed in Hanoi. We walked to the waiting area where we were met by our local guide. I gave the guide all of our passports, the visa application forms with photos attached, and the visa approval form we had received from the government of Vietnam. And then we waited. And waited. And waited. We could see the office where the visas were being given, see passports opened and visas affixed, but our guide was elusive. So we waited. Did I mention we waited?

After about an hour, she finally came back and we distributed the passports into which had been pasted the visas. Then everyone went through passport control and we met on the other side.

Our guide said we had to go to the lost luggage desk. Reminding her that our luggage was not lost, but tardy, she explained that unless we filed a claim for lost luggage, the luggage would not be transferred to Hanoi. I was to gather up all of the baggage claim checks which they then pasted onto a sheet of paper. Some of my people were hesitant to give up their only proof of every having had a bag, but were reassured when they were told that I would get a copy of the baggage tag page. We were missing 14 pieces of luggage. We had found only 11 baggage claim checks. No one would own up as to having additional ones. They filled out the paperwork only identifying 11 pieces of luggage. As they handed me the paperwork, I opened my ticket holder and found that I was the hold-out. There were the three baggage claim tags. I gave them to the people behind the counter and they copied the sheet for me.

Now about two hours later than we had anticipated, it was time for dinner and everyone was hungry and tired and so we decided to go directly to the restaurant where we would eat rather than to the hotel. We called and made sure that the four Swiss travelers and the one British traveler were brought to the restaurant to meet us.

Finally on the bus, we made our acquaintance with the Hanoi traffic jam– the type that puts everything at a standstill. The major bridge across the Red River was being repaired and construction materials and dug up road surface narrowed it to one lane. But we told people about Vietnam and about Hanoi and most of them were just happy to be finally out of the airport and on our way.

We arrived at the restaurant. It is the “forest” restaurant and it is beautifully decorated with objects that represent the history and folklore of Vietnam. Set in a garden, the wooden building was adorned with cloth and metal and wood wall hangings. The wait staff was dressed in native garb of one of Vietnam’s 54 ethnic minorities. It was beautiful.

Rung Restaurant, Hanoi

Rung Restaurant, Hanoi

What was not beautiful was the fact that our knives, cutting boards, and cooking utensils were in our baggage which was currently homeless in Hong Kong. So there we were with our Hanoi equipment (dishes, silverware, one large pot, and a wooden spatula) unable to prepare dinner.

We sent the local guide out to buy a knife. She had to take a motorcycle ride to get it and meanwhile, the chef was bristling as he wanted to kill the fish already so that he could cook them. Yes, you see when we cook in Vietnam, we need to see the fish whole and intact. So, often the fish are still alive when we meet them. These fish had something of a reprieve as we waited for the knife to appear.

In the end, we ate dinner, enjoyed getting to know each other, and although our luggage was still not with us, we all settled into our hotel that night for some much needed sleep.

Tomorrow: Hanoi as most people never imagined it and what ever happened to the luggage…

The adventure continues here

Dali, Yunnan Province, China

Many of the books I read that deal with China emphasize how polluted the air is– that the skies are not blue. Actually, that has not been my experience. The most maligned city in China, Beijing, has, during the 6 times I have visited, had two or three smoggy days, but aside from them, the skies have been clear and blue.

However, everyone agrees that the western part of China, Yunnan Province, has beautiful crystal clear skies and is a most magnificent place to visit.

One exquisite city in Yunnan is Dali, home to two of China’s ethnic minorities, the Yi and the Bai. Bai means white and their native dress is beautifully embroidered white clothing which both the men and women wear. Dali is surrounded by mountains and is the recipient of the vast water flow that comes from the mountains. Freshly flowing water streams through conduits in the streets and between the water, the mountains, the blue sky and the meticulous cleanliness of the city, one can’t help thinking that this is one of the most idyllic places on earth.

A street in the walking area of downtown Dali

A street in the walking area of downtown Dali

Everywhere one looks there is something beautiful to see– or at least something interesting.

A town square, Dali

A town square, Dali

One of the things one notices when in the far east is how hard the women work. While women in the US were asking for the right to go out and work, women in the far east were doing more than their share in planting, harvesting, and even carrying heavy loads. With small families, older people work to support themselves as long as they can.

Street scene, Dali

Street scene, Dali

Remember that expression “for all the tea in China?” Well, that is not a small quantity. All over China tea is sold– in tins and packed into different shapes. It’s quite a culture there. No tea bags. And the teas all have special healing qualities. It’s not unusual to see a tea store such as this.

Teas in China

Teas in China

One of the very special treats of a trip to China is seeing the children. I don’t know if it is objectively true, but I think that every one of them is beautiful. Most of them are from single child families and are doted upon and it shows. The seem self confident and mature This day I caught some children returning from school. They were walking through the market, laughing and joking good naturedly. Notice how lovely they look in their school uniforms.

The boys

The boys

and the girls

and the girls

rubytuesday

Kunming, China

While most people can name a couple of cities they know in China– usually Beijing, Shanghai, Nanking, and Harbin, China has hundreds of large cities that most people in the West have never heard of. One such city is Kunming. With a population of approximately 6.2 million, it is a substantial city with a great deal of industry and some major significance. It is the capital of Yunnan Province and is the gateway to come of the most picturesque places in China. It has a population of about 20% ethnic minorities. China has 55 ethnic minority groups. Some of them have a large number of smaller groups within them, some of which feel that they have been miscategorized. In all, these groups make for a fascinating and colorful experience as they have their own dress, customs, languages, religions, and histories as well as a claim on specific areas of land.

Kunming is called the “Spring City” or the “City of Eternal Spring” because of its wonderful mild weather. Foreign students flock here to study Chinese language and traditional Chinese medicine.

Here is a view of part of the city center.

Gate, City Center, Kunming, China

Gate, City Center, Kunming, China

Although most Chinese people are not devoutly religious, they do have beliefs in higher powers and many think of themselves as Buddhist or Taoist. Many also have adopted the Confucian philosophy. Many Chinese see no contradiction among these three and are adherents to all three. Here is a very beautiful Buddhist Temple. It differs from most because one actually enters and then descends toward the main complex. The picture was taken looking back toward the entrance gate.

Gate,  Yuantong Temple, Kunming, China

Gate, Yuantong Temple, Kunming, China

The temple was built late in the 8th century, but, of course, preserved through the years. Here is some detail of one of the buildings as it was being refurbished recently. It is made of wood with lacquered paint to decorate it. All of the painting is hand done.

Detail of building in Yuantong Temple, Kunming, China

Detail of building in Yuantong Temple, Kunming, China

What could be more relaxing after a day of looking at all of this beauty than sitting with a cup of tea. We were treated to both the tea and an explanation of the significance of this particular type, Puer tea, which is formed into large wheels of tea (about the size of a frisbee) and sold to parents when their daughter is a baby and preserved until she is betrothed as a gift for her husband. Puer tea can heal just about everything and we were told that if we were to have a steady diet of it, our skin would look as young as that of this lovely lady who served us tea in her ethnic dress.

Tea tasting, Kunming, China

Tea tasting, Kunming, China

rubytuesday

To Market- in Bac Ha, Vietnam

After a long drive through gorgeous landscapes- terraced mountains, picturesque villages, we arrive at the Sunday market in Bac Ha. Every moment of the ride is worth it as you take in your first glance of the market. The people who trade here are from the minority group, the Flower Hmong.

The market at Bac Ha

The market at Bac Ha

The market is not just an opportunity to sell and trade handicrafts, but it is the major event of the week. At the market people from villages all around meet. They trade/sell/buy their fruits and vegetables, their meat and their fish. The also buy the exquisitely embroidered clothing they wear.

Buying clothing in Bac Ha

Buying clothing in Bac Ha

They also buy fabrics to make their own clothing and handicraft items. The women are in their traditional dress– not to impress tourists, but because that is what they wear. Notice that since the helmet law (enacted in December 2007) for motorcycles and motorbikes, the traditional dress has begun to include an additional element.

Shopping in Bac Ha

Shopping in Bac Ha

On Sundays, in Bac Ha, even live animals are sold at the market. Because Vietnam is only beginning to mechanize farming, the water buffaloes are very important to a family’s economic well-being.

Buying water buffaloes at the market in Bac Ha

Buying water buffaloes at the market in Bac Ha

Of course, one of the most important things that happens at the Sunday market is that “shidduchim”– marriage matches– are made!

And now, just a few images of the Bac Ha Sunday market, a truly amazing experience!

Ta Phin Village, Vietnam

Not far from SaPa there is a very beautiful village called Ta Phin. A visit there is sure to be memorable. As we arrived at the village, the word had already gotten out that a group of tourists was on its way. As the bus parked, the local women seemed to decide which of them was going to be accompanying which one of us on our walk through the village. When we got off the bus, it was easy to see they were delighted to meet us, and most delighted that we might, at the end of the tour, buy some of their wares.

Happy to see us

Happy to see us

Greeters in TaPhin

Greeters in TaPhin

The village is one in which the Dao people live.  They are one of the 54 ethnic minority groups that live in Vietnam.  Many of these minority groups also live in China, particularly in Yunnan Province which is north of Vietnam.

In this village, many of the women speak rudimentary English and chat with visitors as we make our way past the homes and fields.  Although the head coverings the women wear vary, this is a matter of choice rather than custom.  Some women simply find the close to the heard carves more comfortable and others like those that sit

high on the head.  So often, we Westerners imagine there is significance in others’ customs, but just like us, they too have their own preferences and choice.

Our group walks into the village

Our group walks into the village

We walk past the rice terraces and fields.

Walking past the fields

Walking past the fields


The second woman from the left has a baby on her back. You can see his little head with a hat peeking out over the top of the blue carrier.
View from village

View from village


Sitting on a rock

Sitting on a rock

These people live amidst such beauty, and although from a Western standard, their living arrangements are far from elegant, one has the feeling that these people are happy and content. The Vietnamese government has put virtually every village on the electric grid and there is free education provided for children in the elementary grades. The people see improvement from year to year in their standard of living.
Life in TaPhin

Life in TaPhin


Beautiful

Beautiful

This picture has been reposted to Work of the Poet

A tour of TaPhin will leave you speechless too.

TaVan, Vietnam

TaVan is a village outside of SaPa.  My first visit there was on a cloudy, misty day.  Somehow, the mist fit the entire atmosphere of the village as people in their traditional dress walked with us across the hanging bridge and over the muddy paths.

Bridge in TaVan

Bridge in TaVan

Village of TaVan

Village of TaVan

This village is a home to two different ethnic minorities, the Black Hmong and the Red Dzai. In addition, located in the village is a school at which children from the surrounding areas board Monday through Friday, and then return home to their parents on weekends. There is now free compulsory education for children throughout Vietnam from ages 6-10. We were lucky enough to arrive just as the children were getting out of school. We were able to meet them and were shocked at their linguistic prowess!

Young girl, TaVan

Young girl, TaVan

This little girl greeted me and asked me, in English, where I was from. I responded, “Israel.” I was surprised that she spoke English. After all, here we were in a rural village outside of SaPa which was outside of Lao Cai which was nestled in the mountains of north Vietnam, along the Chinese border. But more surprising was when she said to me, “Shalom, Chamuda!” [Hello, Cutie!] in Hebrew, using the feminine form… I almost fell over! On our walk, I spoke with her about what she was studying and I asked her how she would have responded if I said that I was from France or Italy or Germany or Spain– and each time, she had a prepared response. Amazing!

The adults and the children accompanied us on our walk, steadying us when we were walking over muddy terrain, and at the end, of course, they strongly urged us to buy things they were selling. The tote bags were attractive, ethnic, and very inexpensive. Who could say no?

Walking through the village

Walking through the village

The people were warm and friendly and the experience in TaVan was memorable. There is a guest house in TaVan for trekkers who say they have also enjoyed the friendliness of this very picturesque village.

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