Halong Bay, Vietnam

One of the most beautiful places in the world is Halong Bay, east of Hanoi. Halong Bay, in the Gulf of Tonkin, is known for its magnificent rock outcroppings. There are about 1600 huge rocks, some the size of mountains and others only a few meters long and a few meters tall. They are the result of a process that is termed “Karst.” Karst is the name of an area in what is now Slovenia where these types of structures were first identified and explained. They are the result of the receding of the ocean floor and erosion that took place over thousands of years. The limestone has been worn away leaving only the core area resulting in beautiful formations.

Halong Bay, Vietnam

Halong Bay, Vietnam

Halong Bay has been named as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Although most of these rocks are not large enough for people to live on, the bay has a large number of residents who live on floating homes. Their food is delivered to their porches by boat and their children are collected by boat to go to school.

Floating homes, Halong Bay

Floating homes, Halong Bay

Selling fruit on Halong Bay

Selling fruit on Halong Bay

On our tours of Vietnam, one of the loveliest experiences we have is lunch on board a boat as it cruises along Halong Bay. Because our tours are strictly kosher, we bring with us, of course, all of our own kitchen equipment (woks, knives, cutting boards, stirring implements, foil trays, foil for surfaces) and disposable utensils to eat with. On Halong Bay we enjoy very fresh fish. Below are our people watching as our boat stopped to be supplied with the freshest fish we ever ate!

Sailing on Halong Bay

Sailing on Halong Bay

Come with me! We leave on November 16!

Yuanyang Rice Terraces, China

These are probably the most beautiful rice terraces I have seen. They are particularly picturesque because it was exactly the right season for photos. The stalks were already high, but the rice had not yet formed and turned yellow, so all one sees is the lush green color of the sculptured hillsides.

But words do not do them justice.

A woman tends the rice terraces

A woman tends the rice terraces

Breathtaking!

Breathtaking!

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lijiang, China

I happen to think that Lijiang is one of the most magnificent cities in the world. It’s not just because the old city is made of finely carved wood and restored meticulously, it’s also because it lies amidst some of the most beautiful scenery in the world.

The focal point of the city is Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. It is a mountain that has numerous legends and for the local Naxi people whose language, Dongba, is the world’s last remaining pictographic language, it is a holy mountain. It is easy to see how this mountain would inspire awe. It has thirteen peaks and seems to resemble a dragon lying down. From afar, it is magnificent and a ride up the cable car to the point beyond which one may not climb is an amazing experience.

One way to enjoy this mountain is by viewing it from Black Dragon Pool Park. Without its magnificent views, the park would be well worth visiting because it is landscaped exquisitely and contains buildings and bridges and live music. Adjacent to the park is a museum of the Naxi people that houses all sorts of fascinating artifacts. A visit there is worthwhile if only to hear about the Dongba language and see how it works. You can also watch the embroidery of intricate silk ties. These ties take two months to embroider as complicated geometric designs are embroidered by hand with painstaking accuracy.

With the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the background, it is a most picturesque and impressive place to visit.

Here are some of the views.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (in background)

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (in background)

A closer view of the mountain

A closer view of the mountain

On the pond

On the pond

The other side of the bridge

The other side of the bridge

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Thien Mu Pagoda, Hue, Vietnam

There are many magnificent things to see in Hue, Vietnam’s former capital. Like China, Vietnam too had a Forbidden City for its rulers. Built in its own Vietnamese style, it is quite impressive and certainly the highlight of a trip to Hue. Parts of it are now undergoing reconstruction and restoration.

But no trip to Hue is complete without a cruise on the Perfume River. It is so named because of the fragrances of the plants and trees that line its banks. Here two views of the Perfume River, a place of enchantment.

Looking at the Perfume River, Hue, Vietnam

Looking at the Perfume River, Hue, Vietnam

A dreamscape

A dreamscape

The treat that comes at the end of the cruise, as if the calm waters and entertaining hostesses on the boat, selling silk pajamas, silk blouses, embroidered wall hangings, and carved wooden items weren’t enough– is the Thien Mu Pagoda.

Built in 1601 and then renovated in 1844, it is part of a Buddhist Temple complex that includes a huge 2000 kilogram bell. Legend has it that people used to see an old lady sitting on the hill where the pagoda now stands. She presumably said that a great leader will someday build a pagoda on this spot that would bring peace to the country. She then disappeared into a cloud. The pagoda’s name translates as “Heavenly Lady Pagoda.” The complex now houses young men who are learning to become Buddhist monks. The setting is calm and beautiful.

Approaching the pagoda

Approaching the pagoda

The pagoda actually is not straight, but leans back. So far, no one is talking about reinforcing it and the angle is barely noticeable.

Thien Mu Pagoda

Thien Mu Pagoda

A walk on the grounds is a reminder of the peace and calm that the monastic life has to offer. Join me on my next trip!

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Rice fields outside of Guilin, China

One of the most beautiful sights is that of a rice field. I have seen rice fields and rice terraces at various locations in China and in Vietnam. No matter how many I have seen, they all are captivating. They are beautiful, lush, and serene. The fields change as they first host gorgeous verdant seedlings and then tall green grasses and finally they turn into fields of gold.

All the rice that will be planted at the same time is started in a large clump, somewhere in the field. When those rice seedlings become mature enough to be transplanted, they are planted in perfect rows. In China and in Vietnam, virtually all of the work or rice production is done by hand and during both planting and harvesting season, the fields are filled with workers. The rows they plant are amazingly straight and perfectly spaced. The seedlings are planted in water that shimmers under their beautiful green stalks. As they develop the rice seeds, the fields turn a magnificent yellow/green. Even at harvest time, the fields are picturesque as the dry stalks are gathered.

Here are some pictures to enjoy.

Rice field near Guilin, China

Rice field near Guilin, China

Harvest time, October

Harvest time, October

Rice fields with Karst mountains in background

Rice fields with Karst mountains in background


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Lion Grove Garden, Suzhou, China

A visit to a Chinese garden is an experience everyone should have. Chinese gardens are exciting and lush, while at the same time relaxing and inspiring. They are full of contradictions and full of surprises and mostly, full of beauty.

All traditional Chinese gardens share four elements: buildings, stones, water, and plants. Chinese gardens are a microcosm. The stones, collected for their sizes and shapes, sometimes put in creeks for a period of a year or two or three to refine their shapes, represent mountains. The ponds represent the seas. Unlike the gardens we see in Europe that consist chiefly of plants, these gardens combine the textures of plants and stone and wood and marble and stucco. Unlike the gardens of Europe that feature lots of flowers in brilliant colors, Chinese gardens are shades of green, colored by the leaves of their trees. Unlike European gardens which are manicured and symmetrical, Chinese gardens are wild looking and full of variety.

Today I will show you some pictures of the Lion Grove Garden in Suzhhou, China. Suzhou is known as a garden city or “Venice of the East.” Indeed, Marco Polo reputedly so named it. The city has canals like Venice and being poled through the canals of Suzhou is a uniquely beautiful experience. Suzhou is home to many magnificent gardens. The Lion Grove Garden is only one example. It once belonged to the grandparents of the noted architect, I. M. Pei. A visit there is something that can refresh and renew you for years.

A place of tranquility

A place of tranquility

A walkway in the garden

A walkway in the garden

Always new views

Always new views

Looking across the pond

Looking across the pond

A surprise view from a hole in a rock

A surprise view from a hole in a rock

A tranquil view of the pond and the walkway across it

A tranquil view of the pond and the walkway across it

Come join me in China for a tour of some magnificent gardens!

Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

One of the most fascinating places I have traveled is Tibet. Having gone to cities with progressively higher altitudes in the days before arriving in Tibet, the group was prepared for the rarefied air of Lhasa whose elevation is 3650 meters (11,975 feet) above sea level. Normally visitors are unable to tour on the first day there and must rest, but we “hit the ground running” much to the consternation of the local guide who thought he would have the afternoon and evening off.

I had many adventures in Lhasa and took a large number of photos. One of the most interesting places we visited while there was the Sera monastery. It was founded in 1419, during the Ming Dynasty and the name means “wild rose” in Tibetan. It was named Sera because the hills behind it were filled with wild roses at the time it was being built.

It may be only a coincidence, but the young monks who now study there wear robes that are rose colored. A study session of theirs is fascinating to watch. They gather outside, under the trees in dyads or triads. They refine their knowledge of their faith by asking questions of one another. The questioners stand and the answerers sit. If the answer is deemed good and satisfying based on the traditional sources, the questioners indicate that through a hand gesture signifying approval. If not, they continue to question. Questions are punctuated with slaps on the questioner’s arm. To the observer, it is a somewhat disconcerting sight. Some are standing, some are sitting, there is lots of noise as all of the dyads and triads are constantly speaking, and there is an unpredictable cacophony of slaps.

It is, however, both fascinating and beautiful. Here are a couple of images:

Monks at Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

Monks at Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

Monks sharing a moment at Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

Monks sharing a moment at Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

A Buddha in Hangzhou

Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words. In this case, one statue of a buddha is worth a thousand statues of little babies. This one is installed in a walking area in Hangzhou, China. This area contains some very interesting elements including a number of bronze sculptures of people living their daily lives in China. It also contains the oldest Chinese pharmacy still in existence.

Like other places in China, this area in Hangzhou is unique and well worthwhile a stroll, even on a dreary day.

Now here are two pictures of the Buddha

Buddha statue in Hangzhou

Buddha statue in Hangzhou

Buddha statue from another angle

Buddha statue from another angle

What you might not know about China

1. Most people think that because China is a populous country wherever you go there are hundreds of people. In fact, the streets of China are no more crowded than the streets of Jerusalem or Washington or London. In addition, the Chinese people love gardens and so there are vast gardens in the center of cities throughout China including Beijing and Shanghai. They are enjoyed by local residents as well as visitors and always feature a pond or larger body of water.

2. Many people think of China as a harsh place. In fact, the Chinese are friendly, welcoming people. They love visitors from overseas and they enjoy using whatever English they have to make conversation. They are warm and kind people.

3. People worry about anti-Semitism when they travel. They won’t find it in China. Chinese people think of Jews as the other great ancient civilization and they admire Jewish scholarship, ingenuity, and ambition. In fact, Chinese parents are very much like Jewish parents in that they value their children and they value educating their children and will sacrifice everything to give their children an excellent education.

4. People think of Chinese music as discordant. It is not so. Chinese music is many different things. It is Beijing Opera, but it is also the haunting flute melodies that one sometimes hears when walking through gardens. There is no place in my memory that rivals the gentle flute music in the Good Luck Garden in Hangzhou. Walking there was a truly spiritual experience.

The Good Luck Garden

The Good Luck Garden

Also, there are wonderful innovative Chinese artists like this one.

In short, China is better than you can imagine. It is the perfect place to travel. Come along with me!

Fireworks in Hanoi

The last time I visited Hanoi, we had come back from a side trip to Halong Bay, a most magnificent place that I will post about in the future. We spent the day touring the Temple of Literature, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum area, seeing the homes he lived in and the One Pillar Pagoda. After a cyclo ride around the old town,

Two cyclos in Hanoi

Two cyclos in Hanoi

we transported our people to a small hotel to have a chance for a shower and change of clothes before dinner and the overnight train to Lao Cai. After everyone was settled in their rooms or decided to take walks, I stayed in the lobby to get the address of the restaurant where we were to eat that night. I was then to take all of our equipment (pots, woks, cooking implements, knives, cutting boards, dishes, silverware, etc.) to the restaurant and work on the cooking of dinner.

As I stood in the lobby, all of a sudden, I saw a flash of sparks. It was already getting dark and it looked like nothing so much as fireworks. I looked to see where it was coming from. It was coming from the top of a utility pole down the block from the hotel. It was sparking like a giant cake decoration sparkler. I turned to the desk clerk and said, “Maybe you ought to call the electric company.” She just stood there. I said to my English speaking Vietnamese guide (we always have a local English speaking guide with us), “Perhaps she didn’t understand; the electric pole is sparking (everyone could see that– people in the street had stopped to watch) and if someone doesn’t come, it could make all of the power in the area go out.” He went to the desk clerk and she again did nothing.

By then, it was time for me to go to the restaurant, about a fifteen minute drive away. My guide stayed to load people onto the bus and bring them later to the restaurant.

The people at the restaurant were lovely and cooperative, something that we found to be true of every place we prepared food in Vietnam and Cambodia. They had the fresh fruits and vegetables waiting for me and the whole fish ready for my inspection. Although it was a busy kitchen, they set aside an adequate area covered with tinfoil for preparation of our food completely separate from the other food that was being prepared that evening.

When our people arrived about an hour later, they came with their story of an adventure: they had just gotten to the lobby and were about to leave when all of the lights went out– in the hotel, in the shops nearby, in the streets. Fortunately, they just proceeded to the bus, but they left the entire neighborhood in the dark.

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