Archives for 2008

The adventure begins

** Updated to include pictures

Very early in the morning we awoke and took our suitcases outside. The taxi arrived within a few seconds and off we wert to Ben Gurion Airport. In all of our travels, we have never had the check-in and security checks go so easily. When we took off for Crete at about the same time of early morning only three weeks earlier, the process was much less pleasant.

Swiss, which code-shares with El Al, had intended to send a large jet to fly us to Zurich, but there was an equipment problem, so instead they sent two smaller planes and we were lucky enough to get three seats for the two of us meaning that we had both a window seat and an aisle seat. While waiting in line to board, we found our daughter-in-law’s father who was flying back to Los Angeles via Zurich. We said goodbye to him in Zurich’s huge airport.

We boarded an American Airlines plane and had an eight hour flight to the States. Uncharacteristically, I sat by the window (it was a plane that was configured 2/3/2- so we once again had a window seat and an aisle seat). For most of the flight when I wasn’t sleeping, the view was wing and cloud, but when we finally were over land in the US, I couldn’t believe the richness of the landscape. It was so very green and lush. The homes were scattered through the countryside and there was water, rivers running everywhere and little lakes. At home, in Israel, the default color of the landscape in summer is tan. Without irrigation, there are only weeds, cacti, olive trees, and dirt. Every garden must be irrigated or the plants and bushes and trees will die during our long rainless season that lasts roughly May through October. But here, the default was green.

And I looked at the roads beneath me. There were what seemed like dozens of roads that were four lanes wide with cloverleafed interchanges. I thought of our one limited access road that makes us proud, Route 6 that already has cut travel time to the north by hours and will eventually go from Beer Sheva (in the south) to the north, parting in the north with one road going toward the coast and the other toward Safed and the Golan.

When we landed, we went through immigration with no problem. While waiting for the luggage to appear, I sat next to a pretty young woman. She was on the next to the last page of a Danielle Steele novel. I told my husband , “She’s going to be disappointed; they always just end.” A couple of minutes later, she took the book and threw it in the wastebasket (it was a very used paper back that was on its last… pages). She said, “Oh well!” I said, “Yes, I know.” She is Australian and lives in the US. She is a singer who sings her own music and she was returning from appearances in Europe. She was very delightful and as we talked, she told me that she often spends time in Israel as her parents own an apartment there. I gave her my card and invited her to stop by. She smiled and we parted friends.

My hard sided suitcase that I bought inexpensively in Beijing and that cracked by the end of its first journey, ended this flight no worse for the wear. The crack had not extended and the lock had not popped open. It was a good day!

I last was at Kennedy Airport in 1999 and the changes were enormous, most notably the “sky train” that transported us free of charge to the car rental place. Although very slow, the car rental agency gave us no problems with the reservation we had pre-paid in Israel and very quickly we were on our way.

We parked at the Port Authority Terminal and walked just a few blocks to B&H Electronics (9th Avenue, not far from 34th Street) where we bought a projector for our computer. Ohmigosh. This place has to be the best organized store I have ever seen. They have a huge selection of everything! Inside there were tens of customers. However, they have what seemed like tens of people to help explain the features of the equipment and help us compare brands and models. They were able to have the item in their hands within a minute of our saying “yes” and when we went to check out, there were perhaps 10 counters for those paying by credit card and another 6 for those paying in cash– and no waiting. Then we took our receipts to the next counter and with no waiting, we walked out of the store. From start to finish, it wasn’t a 5 minute process!

We then went to buy a pay-as-you-go telephone. No so easy. Everywhere we stopped, they were asking outrageous prices and the networks that some of the phones worked on sounded as if they were local home networks. At a pharmacy that sold a cheap pay-as-you-go (if you think $60 without any air minutes is cheap), the salesperson was warm and helpful and told us there was an AT&T store down the block.

When we got there, we discovered that we could buy a sim card for my phone that was a pay-as-you-go sim card. I worried that it might not be compatible in some way. I knew that my phone was “unlocked” since I had paid for it to be unlocked and have successfully used it in China. So, we paid the $50 for the sim card, taking the gamble that it would work (they can’t be returned- even if they are found to not work while still in the store.) The clerk, who was cute as a button and named Rosy and lived in New York, had never heard of the album/DVD “Really Rosie” (Maurice Sendak & Carole King). She didn’t know how much air time came with the sim card, but knew it would cost us $1 a day on every day that we used it and $.10 a minute.

Success! It worked. And after a long call to our friends (who we hadn’t seen for many many years) to arrange to meet, the phone said that we still had $48+ credit.

In order to meet our friends, we had to travel by subway up to 72nd street. Although all our luggage was in the car, we were still lugging with us the computer (lightweight computer, heavyweight case) and now had the projector (although lightweight, still packed in the box with all of its accessories) and a cradle with speakers for my iPod that we had purchased too. We were wearing our magical vests (the ones we wear as tour guides that allow us to carry: tickets, passports, as many different currencies as we need, tissues, toothpicks, a small camera, a birkat hamazon card, packaged handwash tissues, an extra cloth bag for carrying, a couple of pens and notepads, a laser pointer, and of course, our Shai Bar Ilan business cards. In short, we were walking suitcases.

When we got down into the subway, everything was automated. Did I mention that I was feeling very much like a stranger in a strange land? No. Well, I was. So we looked at the machine and tried to figure out how to buy just 4 rides when suddenly this very tall, very dark man said to us, “you’d best wait in line.” We self-consciously told him that we were foreigners– which of course was a stretch for him to believe since we actually speak English like natives. But he did. He also helped us figure out that we could buy 4 rides for $7 which seemed like a good deal for us as we didn’t plan to be back in Manhattan anytime soon.

The Starbucks at 72nd street and Broadway may have excellent coffee (I had a low cal iced vanilla latte that was respectable) but their wireless network was also a signalless network! How frustrating!

Our friends walked in and it was really really good to see them. Although we have not been in close touch over the years, we feel very close to them. She and I grew up together– but also her aunt and her mother had been friends with my mother when they were still in school. In 1970, when I was pregnant with our third child, and we were concerned with who would raise the children if we weren’t around to do it, we chose them and they agreed. We were exceedingly happy to hear that their children are all doing well and living good lives. We hope we will see more of them as time goes by and he retires. It was a very special treat to see them!

It then being about eight o’clock (and still light out!!!) we walked on 72nd street and found a kosher restaurant and had delicious sandwiches. We took the subway to the car and soon were crossing over to New Jersey.

By the time we got to the Molly Pitcher rest stop, we were tired and looked at the tourist map to see if there was information about lodging nearby. While there, a man said to us, “there’s a Motel 6 at exit 4.” As we got into conversation with him, we found that he spends most of us time doing acts of kindness, primarily visiting the sick. He takes kosher food to them in hospitals (he offered us pizza that he had in his truck, but we had just had meat sandwiches a couple of hours before.) He told us about children and adults who come to Philadelphia (where he lives a couple of blocks away from my sister) for medical procedures and who are in need of kindness and support. He told us to get in touch with him tomorrow because he’d like to introduce us to someone who might be very interested in our tours and might even get a group together. Counting the woman I spoke with on the subway, we handed out at least three business cards today to people who were interested in taking them (the stuffing them into strangers’ pockets thing never really appealed to me 🙂

We found a motel that had a coupon in a booklet for travelers. It was about half the price of the others and since all we wanted was to sleep, we went and checked in. The humorless man at the desk, who didn’t crack a smile the entire time we spoke to him, not even when we recognized (or thought we did) the pictures of Buddhist monks on the wall (he said, “no. I am Hindu.) told us that we would have to sleep in the same [king sized] bed since that’s what the ad was for. I DIDN’T say to my husband (although I really really really wanted to) “That’s gonna make your wife very unhappy.” He wouldn’t have understood.

The room is at ground level (which is good in terms of carrying in the luggage) in more ways than one. But we are comfortable and safe and can’t wait to see what new adventures we will be having tomorrow.

…gone to look for America*

The crush of yesterday and today was to organize all that we need for our excellent adventure*. We have packed clothing, costumes, gifts, and assorted electronic equipment. I was told by one of my children that my all-purpose crocs sandals which I had planned on wearing the entire time were not suitable attire for a Los Angeles synagogue service. I would have a “Aaron, I don’t think we’re in Israel anymore*” experience or perhaps a Beverly Hillbillies* flashback. In any case, I reluctantly packed my only pair of closed shoes and I suppose we are about ready to go.

Not having been in the US for 6 years, I am guessing it will be like discovering a new place– since we’ll be coming home to a place we’ve never been before.*

So in preparation, we went out this evening to the local [kosher] Burger King to get one last long look at Israel as lived by the Israelis– for comparison’s sake. In fact, we think the calories probably won’t count since we were engaged in scientific research.

Here is what we found:
1. Lots of women 35+ who are unable to get shirts long enough to cover their waist.
2. One woman whose two year old spent time taking apart the wet floor barrier sign and opening the fire hose box when he wasn’t standing on the chair and reaching across the table.
3. A Russian woman who when she took her children to wash their hands, took about 2 yards of paper toweling for each child.
4. Four bouncy little girls ranging in age from about 5 to about 8.
5. Lots of noise.

Now at 2 a.m., we take our cab to the airport and travel via Zurich on to America… the adventure is just beginning.

* For some reason I am channeling American cultural icons from past generations

Coming to a town near you

Well, final preparations for our road show* are underway. We will be setting out for: Manhattan, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Philadelphia (yes, again), Newburgh NY, New Rochelle NY, Staten Island, Philadelphia (yes, yet again), Omaha, Phoenix, & Los Angeles (and places in between… as we drive cross-country like a couple of teenagers/Israelis). We will then treat ourselves to a cruise to Alaska, a couple of days in Seattle, and then back to LA to spend some time with our son and daughter-in-law and their children who vacation there each summer (at her parents’ home.)

I will be reporting from the road as we (re)discover America. Having lived in Israel now almost 13 years and last visited the US 6 years ago, I imagine there will be surprises.

So stay tuned…

*We will be presenting a fun-filled travelogue of China and Tibet and bringing along some treats for some of those who we will entertain. It is only a sample of the amazing time people have when they travel with us and Shai Bar Ilan Geographical Tours, the finest company providing kosher/shomer shabbat tours throughout the world.

Life

It’s not that I have nothing to write about. Life here has been busy. Shavuot was delightful with pleasant guests and good food. I made blintzes for the first time in years and it was fun! Preparations for our trip to the US are continuing with all sorts of details to be nailed down and papers and props to pack (we are bringing all sorts of surprises.)

But what has been occupying my thoughts and has been the subtext of my life for the last few weeks, and particularly for the last couple of weeks is a struggle that someone I know is going through. Her friend is dying. And it isn’t at all like Hollywood where all of the process takes around 2 hours. It’s a process that is excruciating. Her dear friend has ALS and it is cruelly snuffing out life- a bit at a time. No longer able to walk around or talk, her friend can still write notes and they are the only way out of the prison that ALS creates. For everyone- for her dear friend, for the family members, for friends, and for people who are only secondarily affected, it is a terrible, emotionally painful time. Fortunately, the family has the services of dedicated hospice workers who help lighten the emotional burden with their caring.

Last night I saw a former student of mine at the bar mitzvah party of the son of a mutual friend. This former student and her husband, an oncologist, have started an institute in Jerusalem that trains professionals and lay volunteers in ways to assist people with terminal illnesses and their family members. They have been able to receive funding from outside sources and are helping tens of families at any given time. I realized once again what a wonderful thing they are doing.

This is one of the absurdities of life. As the same time most of us carry on our daily activities with the joys and the frustrations that accompany them, others are sitting at the edge of the universe and feeling the pull of inevitability.

The bunion saga: Part II

The big day arrived. Finally, I was going to the hospital that fices ugly (and painful) feet. My appointment (in case you forgot) was for 8:16.

I left home at 7:00 a.m. because I was worried about traffic jams and other sundry conditions. This is a country where a “chefetz chashud” (suspicious item) can have rush hour traffic ground to a halt for the better part of an hour. However, yesterday there was clear sailing and I arrived at the hospital about 7:45.

I found the outpatient clinics and took my number to check in. In Israel, the idea of taking a number has really caught on. And it is a wonderful invention. Before that you could be standing in line at the bank for 15 minutes and suddenly someone can walk over with coffee in one had, a croissant in the other and tell you that he was ahead of you because he was here “before.” Right.

So now there are the little number stubs like they use at the bakery in the US (or used to, at least) and they [are supposed to] keep people honest. I checked in, had all of the right paperwork, and was handed my file to lay on a table outside of room 32. Paper clipped to the front of the file was my bakery number. I was the first to arrive.

One by one, the other patients arrived. Nice people. There was the man who had made aliya from “the Belgian Congo” who lived in Modi’in and was now managing a hotel in Jerusalem. There was the restaurant owner from Tel Aviv. There was the Israeli woman whose son lives in Queens who was looking forward to a trip to visit him. Oh yes, and there was the diva.

The Diva was a woman of about 60 who came into the foot clinic wearing stiletto sandals and a strapless tight lavender dress with cut-outs that extended in a triangular pattern from the hem of her dress to her panty line. Can we all say here “inappropriate”? She sauntered in at about 9:15. Oh, how would I know that if my appointment was at 8:16? Simple. The doctor who was supposed to examine the gathering hordes was not coming in. The doctor who was replacing him was stuck with an emergency [cup of coffee? use your imagination; this blog is G-rated]. So we all waited. We got to know each other. Didn’t sing any folk songs, nor did we dance the hora (remember, our feet hurt). But was did get talk. With the young soldier male and the young soldier female (who was so very pretty that I couldn’t imagine her looking any better had she been dressed like the Diva), with the other female soldier, Svetlana, who was there with her father (as Israelis would say, “like two drops of water” — they looked so alike) who was fragile and delicate and lovely too.

It was only 11:15 when finally they got down to business. The nurse came out and called in…. Diva!!!! Immediately Queens mother, hotel manager, restaurant owner, and yours truly called out, “Hey! We all were here before her!!!!” (There were others too, but those are the ones I remember.) The nurse informed us that we were wrong; she had been there long before us. We objected, but there was no convincing her.

A few minutes later, I and hotel manager were called into the other two examining rooms while Diva was examined by the one doctor. Diva not only was inappropriate in dress, but she proceeded to take close to 25 minutes asking stupid questions (they were walk-through examining rooms and all of the doors were open). I had a barely controllable desire to go stomp on both of her stiletto shod feet.

Finally the doctor got to me. Professional and thorough, he told me that:
1. After surgery I would be able to walk around on my heel.
2. I will not be able to wash my foot for 4-6 weeks.
3. I should be ready for 6 months of strong pain.
4. There are no surgeries scheduled for the summer.
5. I will receive a date of their choice for the surgery.
6. If I cannot make that date, I must come in for another appointment just like the one I washaving yesterday.

He then walked over to hotel manager leaving me with the nurse. I asked her why I would need to come back for the same exam if I didn’t have the surgery the date they gave me. She explained, “We can only remember you for three months.” It was clear to me that with the volume of patients, it was likely he wouldn’t remember me by the end of the hour. And, there is this neat invention called the x ray that could provide clues as to the bone structure of the foot…

Oh well.

The State of the Bunion

What’s going on with me, you ask. OK, you didn’t ask, but I’ll tell you anyway…

Having returned from Crete feeling as energetic as some of the statues we saw there, I sat down and started to work on the presentations we’ll be making in the US on China/Tibet and Vietnam/Cambodia. The problem I have is not that I don’t have enough to present. I have way way way too much. And it’s hard to leave out beautiful, scenic, interesting, exciting places, but if I don’t want to have our audiences bring pajamas and pillows, I need to cut out a lot!

In addition to dealing with the logistics of the trip (flights, car rental, flights from LA to and from Seattle for the one-week Alaskan cruise!!!!!!!!) we have been going through a big repair on the house (now finished), my husband had a root canal early Sunday afternoon and then the first part of a dental implant procedure (that necessitated lots of stitches) late Sunday afternoon, and we have to prepare for Shavuot next week (hopefully some of our family will be joining us for a meal). And………

Tomorrow is the next installment of “The Bunion Blacklist” saga where we find out if making the appointment with all of the correct documentation and x rays but not having 6 weeks to spare to stay off my feet will land me right back on the famed list. Let’s hope it’s not the same doctor I saw last time I went to this hospital. Shortly after that visit, someone beat up a doctor at that hospital and I couldn’t but wish it had been he (it wasn’t). Of course I was not encouraged by the appointment letter I received on special hospital stationery that stated that my appointment was set (by them, of course) for 8:16 a.m. (no, that’s not a typo… 8:16) and to “come prepared for a wait of several hours.”

More tomorrow.

Crete

We returned in the early hours of the morning on Thursday from 4 days in Crete. We had visited Crete twice before for only a few hours while docked there and we had wanted to return. So, with the help of my older daughter who is excellent at finding bargains, we were able to go for a seriously decent price.

What can I say? The island is simply beautiful. It is lush. It is underpopulated. There are vast areas that just stretch out that are filled with trees and brush. There are olive trees everywhere. The sea is clear and clean near the shoreline, varying in color from aquamarine to ink blue. There are majestic mountains with picturesque villages.

We visited Knossos and Zakros, two of the three Minoan palaces. We saw Minoan relics at the archaeological museum in Heraklion. We saw Spinalonga, the Venetian built fortress that later was used as a leper colony. We strolled through Agio Nikolaus and Sitia. We enjoyed Chania, one of the most beautiful Venetian ports and the home of the only existing synagogue in Crete.

Some of the 300 pictures I took are available here

We enjoyed being in a lovely place with friendly people and beautiful music. A welcome change of pace!

Yes, the chickenpox as a non sequitur

As Sandy (comment on last posting) has pointed out, this is not my first noteworthy experience with chickenpox. In 1978 as I was giving birth to my baby in Wiesbaden, Germany, my oldest son was on a school trip to Strasbourg, France breaking out in chickenpox. This was 2 days before Passover (the baby was born Wednesday evening and Friday evening was the first seder.)

The baby and I returned home on Friday morning to a home filled with 4 very excited children, one of whom was very pocked. That evening, as my husband conducted the community seder at the Hainerberg Chapel, I conducted a very fast seder for my oldest son, my youngest son (six years old) and my nursing baby.

About two to three weeks later, roughly corresponding to the end of a visit from my parents (not always a tension-free time), the other 3 older children all broke out in chickenpox. But wait, there’s more… The weather in Wiesbaden was, as usual, cold and rainy– so cold and rainy that for the entire duration of the children’s chickenpox (17 years– or so it felt) none of them were able to go outside to play or just get some fresh air. So there we sat, three itchy, bored children (whose only recreation was fighting with each other), my only colicky baby (and the only one I nursed), and one very tired mom (me.)

When finally I could take no more, I sent the children back to school. I got a call from the school nurse telling me that they were not yet ready to come back to school. I told her that if they couldn’t go back to school tomorrow, I would need someone from child protective services over to my house. She told me that tomorrow they would be ready.

The baby didn’t get chickenpox– or at least not that I ever could tell. However, when she was 3 she developed a case of shingles that was so unusual that she was photographed for a medical journal.

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Quoting http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/000858.htm
Herpes zoster, or shingles, is caused by the same virus that causes chickenpox. After an episode of chickenpox, the virus becomes dormant in the body. Herpes zoster occurs as a result of the virus re-emerging after many years.

The cause of the re-activation is usually unknown, but seems to be linked to aging, stress, or an impaired immune system. Often only one attack occurs, without recurrence.
*****************************************************
Many years??? Since we know that her immune system was fine- was it caused by aging? stress? (“oh that too too tough sandbox toy; how much sand will fit in it?”)

and that is the whole story. I swear by Kinneret’s pocks.

A sewer, a tree, a laptop, and me — to say nothing of the beer bread

It’s been a quiet week in Lake Wobegon…. oh wait… that’s not my story to tell…

It’s been a busy week here. It all started about 9 years ago when I hired a highly recommended gardener to design our garden. When he finished, it was spectacular. It was only a few months later that I heard that ficus trees are noteworthy for sending out roots to enter one’s plumbing system. But the three he had planted (one very close to the house) were attractive and flourishing, and so we did nothing.

Once or twice, our pipes had to be cleaned and the sewer cleaned out to remove roots. However on Passover this year, we had a complete blockage of our plumbing in our master bathroom. It took three plumbers (or 4, if you count the one who went running away in fear) to get things working again (they fixed the toilet and then the shower didn’t drain properly- they fixed the shower and the floor drain rose…) so we decided to get a contractor to get the roots out of the system, see where the blockage was, and replace/reposition pipes. As the work proceeded, more and more of our patio needed to be dug up and then some of the Jerusalem stone at the front of the house had to be removed. The pipes, it turns out, were not joined properly and were placed at odd angles that didn’t help the flow…

Of course, while still in the middle of this, we decided to pull out the guilty tree which aside from shading our bedroom, shaded the front of the building and our patio and took up a good deal of the front garden. So we called a tree remover since the tree had grown well past the second story and was very full and lush. In just a few minutes, we had a lot of beautiful branches spread over the sidewalk.

So now the front of the house is not only bare, but it has a gaping wound (where they are fixing the pipes) and to say I feel somewhat exposed woud be an understatement.

And finally, the Dell laptop with the fabulous celeron processor finally got on my last nerve (among other cute baby tricks, every once in a while it decides that there is no internet connection over our LAN when the other two computers are just charging along with no trouble. Usually it takes at least three cold boots to get it back.) So yesterday we went and got a new laptop. Fortunately with the assistance of one of my fabulous genius sons-in-law (of which I am blessed with exactly 2), I was able to set it up with relatively little sweat (although I am a strange type of technophobe.) Now I just need to figure out how to prepare my travelogues for our trip to the States…

And speaking of trips… my husband (no, I am NOT implying that he is a trip) came up with an idea that I was wary of for the trips we lead. Kosher bread is not easy to get in some of the locations we visit and so he went trawling the internet and came up with an idea of making “beer bread” which looked easy to make because it had almost no ingredients, required no time to rise, and could be made in one bowl. I told him that I thought it complicated things, but this morning he baked two loaves and to tell the truth, it tasted pretty good.

How do I tie together a sewer, a tree, a computer, and beer bread? Only via non sequitur: Tomorrow I will be babysitting Princess Kinneret Kangaroo who has the chickenpox. It was a busy week.

Please join my cult

It has come to my attention that there are a number of cults here in Israel that are run by “rebbetzins” (rabbis’ wives). It seems that their followers believe that these women have a direct connection with the Creator of the universe and that by being part of their group, they will reap some benefits. For example, these leaders know what G-d is thinking, and that’s pretty important knowledge. In return for being a member of these cults, men have left their wives, mothers and fathers have been willing to beat and torture their children, and women have been willing to dress up in layers and layers of scarves and clothing that not only cover their whole body, but also their faces including their eyes.

So I got to thinking. My husband is a rabbi. In some weird way, that means that technically I am a rebbitzen. I certainly have as much access to the Creator of the universe as anyone else (who knows? maybe more….) So I have decided to start a cult.

Here’s what my loyal followers must do to show their devotion. I think it will be a bit easier in some ways than some of the other cults.

1. Respect the people around you. Treat them with kindness. Be patient.
2. Love the people in your family. Really love them. Smile when they enter a room, hug them when they are feeling sad, listen when they need to talk.
3. Take care of yourself. Eat healthy foods, get some exercise. Find time for some pleasurable activity. Don’t judge yourself or be too hard on yourself. You are human.

As to the contributions usually required to hear the prophecies, please give them to meaningful charities.

If you join my cult, I cannot promise you a trouble-free life, but I can promise you one that is meaningful and worth living.