Kunming, China

While most people can name a couple of cities they know in China– usually Beijing, Shanghai, Nanking, and Harbin, China has hundreds of large cities that most people in the West have never heard of. One such city is Kunming. With a population of approximately 6.2 million, it is a substantial city with a great deal of industry and some major significance. It is the capital of Yunnan Province and is the gateway to come of the most picturesque places in China. It has a population of about 20% ethnic minorities. China has 55 ethnic minority groups. Some of them have a large number of smaller groups within them, some of which feel that they have been miscategorized. In all, these groups make for a fascinating and colorful experience as they have their own dress, customs, languages, religions, and histories as well as a claim on specific areas of land.

Kunming is called the “Spring City” or the “City of Eternal Spring” because of its wonderful mild weather. Foreign students flock here to study Chinese language and traditional Chinese medicine.

Here is a view of part of the city center.

Gate, City Center, Kunming, China

Gate, City Center, Kunming, China

Although most Chinese people are not devoutly religious, they do have beliefs in higher powers and many think of themselves as Buddhist or Taoist. Many also have adopted the Confucian philosophy. Many Chinese see no contradiction among these three and are adherents to all three. Here is a very beautiful Buddhist Temple. It differs from most because one actually enters and then descends toward the main complex. The picture was taken looking back toward the entrance gate.

Gate,  Yuantong Temple, Kunming, China

Gate, Yuantong Temple, Kunming, China

The temple was built late in the 8th century, but, of course, preserved through the years. Here is some detail of one of the buildings as it was being refurbished recently. It is made of wood with lacquered paint to decorate it. All of the painting is hand done.

Detail of building in Yuantong Temple, Kunming, China

Detail of building in Yuantong Temple, Kunming, China

What could be more relaxing after a day of looking at all of this beauty than sitting with a cup of tea. We were treated to both the tea and an explanation of the significance of this particular type, Puer tea, which is formed into large wheels of tea (about the size of a frisbee) and sold to parents when their daughter is a baby and preserved until she is betrothed as a gift for her husband. Puer tea can heal just about everything and we were told that if we were to have a steady diet of it, our skin would look as young as that of this lovely lady who served us tea in her ethnic dress.

Tea tasting, Kunming, China

Tea tasting, Kunming, China

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Yuanyang Rice Terraces, China

These are probably the most beautiful rice terraces I have seen. They are particularly picturesque because it was exactly the right season for photos. The stalks were already high, but the rice had not yet formed and turned yellow, so all one sees is the lush green color of the sculptured hillsides.

But words do not do them justice.

A woman tends the rice terraces

A woman tends the rice terraces

Breathtaking!

Breathtaking!

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lijiang, China

I happen to think that Lijiang is one of the most magnificent cities in the world. It’s not just because the old city is made of finely carved wood and restored meticulously, it’s also because it lies amidst some of the most beautiful scenery in the world.

The focal point of the city is Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. It is a mountain that has numerous legends and for the local Naxi people whose language, Dongba, is the world’s last remaining pictographic language, it is a holy mountain. It is easy to see how this mountain would inspire awe. It has thirteen peaks and seems to resemble a dragon lying down. From afar, it is magnificent and a ride up the cable car to the point beyond which one may not climb is an amazing experience.

One way to enjoy this mountain is by viewing it from Black Dragon Pool Park. Without its magnificent views, the park would be well worth visiting because it is landscaped exquisitely and contains buildings and bridges and live music. Adjacent to the park is a museum of the Naxi people that houses all sorts of fascinating artifacts. A visit there is worthwhile if only to hear about the Dongba language and see how it works. You can also watch the embroidery of intricate silk ties. These ties take two months to embroider as complicated geometric designs are embroidered by hand with painstaking accuracy.

With the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the background, it is a most picturesque and impressive place to visit.

Here are some of the views.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (in background)

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (in background)

A closer view of the mountain

A closer view of the mountain

On the pond

On the pond

The other side of the bridge

The other side of the bridge

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Rice fields outside of Guilin, China

One of the most beautiful sights is that of a rice field. I have seen rice fields and rice terraces at various locations in China and in Vietnam. No matter how many I have seen, they all are captivating. They are beautiful, lush, and serene. The fields change as they first host gorgeous verdant seedlings and then tall green grasses and finally they turn into fields of gold.

All the rice that will be planted at the same time is started in a large clump, somewhere in the field. When those rice seedlings become mature enough to be transplanted, they are planted in perfect rows. In China and in Vietnam, virtually all of the work or rice production is done by hand and during both planting and harvesting season, the fields are filled with workers. The rows they plant are amazingly straight and perfectly spaced. The seedlings are planted in water that shimmers under their beautiful green stalks. As they develop the rice seeds, the fields turn a magnificent yellow/green. Even at harvest time, the fields are picturesque as the dry stalks are gathered.

Here are some pictures to enjoy.

Rice field near Guilin, China

Rice field near Guilin, China

Harvest time, October

Harvest time, October

Rice fields with Karst mountains in background

Rice fields with Karst mountains in background


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Lion Grove Garden, Suzhou, China

A visit to a Chinese garden is an experience everyone should have. Chinese gardens are exciting and lush, while at the same time relaxing and inspiring. They are full of contradictions and full of surprises and mostly, full of beauty.

All traditional Chinese gardens share four elements: buildings, stones, water, and plants. Chinese gardens are a microcosm. The stones, collected for their sizes and shapes, sometimes put in creeks for a period of a year or two or three to refine their shapes, represent mountains. The ponds represent the seas. Unlike the gardens we see in Europe that consist chiefly of plants, these gardens combine the textures of plants and stone and wood and marble and stucco. Unlike the gardens of Europe that feature lots of flowers in brilliant colors, Chinese gardens are shades of green, colored by the leaves of their trees. Unlike European gardens which are manicured and symmetrical, Chinese gardens are wild looking and full of variety.

Today I will show you some pictures of the Lion Grove Garden in Suzhhou, China. Suzhou is known as a garden city or “Venice of the East.” Indeed, Marco Polo reputedly so named it. The city has canals like Venice and being poled through the canals of Suzhou is a uniquely beautiful experience. Suzhou is home to many magnificent gardens. The Lion Grove Garden is only one example. It once belonged to the grandparents of the noted architect, I. M. Pei. A visit there is something that can refresh and renew you for years.

A place of tranquility

A place of tranquility

A walkway in the garden

A walkway in the garden

Always new views

Always new views

Looking across the pond

Looking across the pond

A surprise view from a hole in a rock

A surprise view from a hole in a rock

A tranquil view of the pond and the walkway across it

A tranquil view of the pond and the walkway across it

Come join me in China for a tour of some magnificent gardens!

Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

One of the most fascinating places I have traveled is Tibet. Having gone to cities with progressively higher altitudes in the days before arriving in Tibet, the group was prepared for the rarefied air of Lhasa whose elevation is 3650 meters (11,975 feet) above sea level. Normally visitors are unable to tour on the first day there and must rest, but we “hit the ground running” much to the consternation of the local guide who thought he would have the afternoon and evening off.

I had many adventures in Lhasa and took a large number of photos. One of the most interesting places we visited while there was the Sera monastery. It was founded in 1419, during the Ming Dynasty and the name means “wild rose” in Tibetan. It was named Sera because the hills behind it were filled with wild roses at the time it was being built.

It may be only a coincidence, but the young monks who now study there wear robes that are rose colored. A study session of theirs is fascinating to watch. They gather outside, under the trees in dyads or triads. They refine their knowledge of their faith by asking questions of one another. The questioners stand and the answerers sit. If the answer is deemed good and satisfying based on the traditional sources, the questioners indicate that through a hand gesture signifying approval. If not, they continue to question. Questions are punctuated with slaps on the questioner’s arm. To the observer, it is a somewhat disconcerting sight. Some are standing, some are sitting, there is lots of noise as all of the dyads and triads are constantly speaking, and there is an unpredictable cacophony of slaps.

It is, however, both fascinating and beautiful. Here are a couple of images:

Monks at Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

Monks at Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

Monks sharing a moment at Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

Monks sharing a moment at Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

A Buddha in Hangzhou

Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words. In this case, one statue of a buddha is worth a thousand statues of little babies. This one is installed in a walking area in Hangzhou, China. This area contains some very interesting elements including a number of bronze sculptures of people living their daily lives in China. It also contains the oldest Chinese pharmacy still in existence.

Like other places in China, this area in Hangzhou is unique and well worthwhile a stroll, even on a dreary day.

Now here are two pictures of the Buddha

Buddha statue in Hangzhou

Buddha statue in Hangzhou

Buddha statue from another angle

Buddha statue from another angle

What you might not know about China

1. Most people think that because China is a populous country wherever you go there are hundreds of people. In fact, the streets of China are no more crowded than the streets of Jerusalem or Washington or London. In addition, the Chinese people love gardens and so there are vast gardens in the center of cities throughout China including Beijing and Shanghai. They are enjoyed by local residents as well as visitors and always feature a pond or larger body of water.

2. Many people think of China as a harsh place. In fact, the Chinese are friendly, welcoming people. They love visitors from overseas and they enjoy using whatever English they have to make conversation. They are warm and kind people.

3. People worry about anti-Semitism when they travel. They won’t find it in China. Chinese people think of Jews as the other great ancient civilization and they admire Jewish scholarship, ingenuity, and ambition. In fact, Chinese parents are very much like Jewish parents in that they value their children and they value educating their children and will sacrifice everything to give their children an excellent education.

4. People think of Chinese music as discordant. It is not so. Chinese music is many different things. It is Beijing Opera, but it is also the haunting flute melodies that one sometimes hears when walking through gardens. There is no place in my memory that rivals the gentle flute music in the Good Luck Garden in Hangzhou. Walking there was a truly spiritual experience.

The Good Luck Garden

The Good Luck Garden

Also, there are wonderful innovative Chinese artists like this one.

In short, China is better than you can imagine. It is the perfect place to travel. Come along with me!

The Temple of Heaven, Beijing

The Emperor of China was thought to be the son of Heaven. He derived his authority not just by succeeding the Emperor before him from his dynasty, but from his performance as one who could care for his people. Primarily, the Emperor was responsible for feeding the people. A good year with good harvests and plentiful food would be an affirmation of the Emperor’s power. If there were bad years and people starved, the Emperor was seen as not deserving of the blessings of Heaven and his authority was in question. For that reason, the Emperors were highly motivated to pray for rains and good harvests.

Twice a year, from the Forbidden City, the center of Beijing, the crossroads of the world– after all, China calls itself The Middle Kingdom– the Emperor would make his way south with a large entourage of officials in ceremonial dress in a procession that would take three days (although in fact, it was only a couple of miles). During the time the procession was passing, people were to stay inside so as not to see the procession. Those who were by chance outside, had to fall to the ground and lie there with their faces down until the procession passed.

After a southward walk, the procession would turn east and then north again to enter the Temple complex. Once in the compound of the Temple of Heaven, the Emperor would make his way north and would spend three days fasting and praying before putting on special ceremonial garments and praying in the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests.

Here are some pictures of the complex:

The Imperial Vault of Heaven

The Imperial Vault of Heaven

Gate between Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests and Imperial Vault of Heaven

The Gate

The Gate

Our group August 2007 in front of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests

Our group August 2007 in front of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests

The Temple of Heaven, Beijing

The Temple of Heaven is not only a magnificent series of structures, but it is an amazing place to visit because at its heart is the heart of the Chinese people. In this place you can see and meet people and begin to understand what China is really about. These people are warm, friendly, and full of grace.

The environs of the Temple of Heaven contain areas where people meet on a daily basis and engage in exercise and games of all sorts. Of course, most of the people who meet and play in this open-air community center are older folks who are no longer working. They pay a minimal yearly fee and then have use of the park every day. Here are some of the sights:

Women exercising

Women exercising

Notice the “play equipment” is adult sized.

Women walking on pebbles

Women walking on pebbles

When we visit China, we make sure to take everyone for a foot massage. These women get their own massage as they walk in their light-soled shoes on pebbles cemented into the ground and protruding exactly enough to provide a therapeutic massage!

Ouch!

Ouch!

This woman made all of us think “ouch!”

Ribbon exercises

Ribbon exercises

This was a particularly lovely sight. Many of the women get their exercise by waving ribbons in beautiful intricate patterns.

Fan dancing in the park

Fan dancing in the park

In addition to Tai Chi, there is fan dancing, sword dancing and lots of other group activities. Western style social dancing is also done with old American tunes being played on large amplifiers. Some people also come here to play cards, chess, and mahjong. Some of the women bring craft projects such as crocheting and knitting. Sometimes they sell their items to tourists.

Of course all should be done accompanied by music!

Musician in the park

Musician in the park


Next time we’ll see some of the buildings in this large complex called “The Temple of Heaven.”

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