Jerusalem, Israel

I am lucky enough to be living in one of the most amazing parts of the planet. Israel is truly a miraculous country. It is also a very beautiful country.

I live in Modi’in, a new city, only 13 years old, with a population of over 70,000. We are located about 1/2 way between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. A drive to either city is about 30 minutes long during non-rush hour times.

In June, we celebrated the Bar Mitzvah of one of our grandsons. On the way to the Western Wall, where the service took place, we passed some children on their way to school.

Morning in the Old City of Jerusalem

Morning in the Old City of Jerusalem

We walked a little further through the lovely stone streets in the peaceful light of early morning and saw beautiful scenes such as this

A street in the Jewish Quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem

A street in the Jewish Quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem

We then got to the area where the Hurva Synagogue had been. The Hurva Synagogue had stood on land that had been used for Jewish prayer since the 14th century. It was constructed beginning in 1836 and was completed in 1856. It was a big, beautiful landmark in the center of Jerusalem. In 1948, when the UN voted to finally recognize the Jews’ claim to the land of Israel, the Arabs were not willing to have a Jewish presence in the Middle East and attacked the fledgling state seeking to completely destroy it. Israel’s victory was nothing short of miraculous for the Jews were out-armed and out-manned.

However, despite the overall victory, the Jordanians had captured the Old City of Jerusalem and among their first acts was destruction of all of the synagogues. The Hurva was no more.

In 1967, when Jerusalem was reunited, an arch was constructed atop the ruined building to mark the site of where the synagogue had been. After that there was a great deal of debate as to what to do with the area. Finally, in the last year or two, construction began to restore the synagogue and this is a picture of it in June as construction was continuing.

The Hurva Synagogue, under construction

The Hurva Synagogue, under construction

And this is the reason for this lovely outing, my fabulous grandson, Matan, who celebrated his Bar Mitzvah that day! How proud we were of him then and how proud we are of him always!

Matan at the Western Wall

Matan at the Western Wall

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Moscow, Russia – Red Square

When I think of the color red, one of the travel destinations I think of first is Red Square. Russia, for many years a place that was off limits to travel for fear of the anti-Western political regime that held sway over its people, finally is accessible and turns out to be a very interesting place to visit.

If there were one word I would use to describe Moscow, it would opulent. Never have I seen as much gold as I saw there- and it was everywhere, most notably on the onion-domed churches which dot the landscape.

But today, we are going to Red Square. Here is what one sees walking toward the entrance:

Approaching Red Square

Everything is on a grand scale. No expense has been spared.

Entrance, between the two towers

The actual entrance to Red Square is through the arches under those two towers. Military equipment and large numbers of troops would file through those arches for shows of military might on May Day. Inside Red Square, there is a very very large area that is open for assembly and military exhibitions and there is also a building that houses Lenin’s tomb. People line up and file through the mausoleum to view Lenin.

At the opposite end of the square is the incredibly magnificent St. Basil’s Church. Here it is from afar.

St. Basil's, Red Square, Russia

The church was commissioned by Ivan the Terrible in the 16th century and presumably, after completion, he had the architect blinded so that he could never create anything more beautiful. I am not certain that beautiful would be the word I would use to describe it, but it certainly is noteworthy and unique.

Here is a picture of some detail:

Close up of St. Basil's Moscow

OF course nothing compares to Red Square at sunset, especially when sunset is after 10 p.m. in early summer

Red Square at night (10 p.m. in July)

I found both Moscow and St. Petersburg to be a delight to the senses. More about both of them in the days and weeks to come.

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Moscow, Russia

Moscow was one of the places I visited that surprised me the most. I thought of it as a dark dour place and it was anything but that. I was amazed by the creativity and the art and here I will show you just a couple of examples.

We went to a number of synagogues while in Moscow and one of them was a Chabad Lubavitch synagogue. We passed this fence while walking toward the synagogue.

Fence in Moscow

For those coming from Shadow Shot Sunday, please consider taking my challenge Round the World with Rona

So what do people do with an old synagogue which was probably not used for more than 70 years until after the fall of the Soviet Union? Well, it could be refurbished, which this one was, both inside and outside, but suppose one wanted to update it, expand it, and yet preserve the facade? Well, here is the result:

Chabad Synagogue, Moscow

Chabad Synagogue, Moscow

As one walks toward the synagogue, this is what one views, a modern looking, concrete and glass structure. As one nears the entrance, this is what one sees.

Synagogue, Moscow

Yes, it is a glass wall that is in front of the old facade of the building. It provides additional space and insulation as well as an updated look.

And here is the original facade

Chabad synagogue, Moscow

Fortunately the synagogue is not only beautiful to visit, but it is thriving. While we visited there were groups of people praying in the main synagogue and the large, beautifully decorated chapel, and upstairs there is a snack bar and a roof garden and other recreational facilities. After years of suppression of religious worship, it is amazing to see what has happened. This is not the Russia I thought I would be seeing. It was a pleasant surprise!

Halong Bay, Vietnam

One of the most beautiful places in the world is Halong Bay, east of Hanoi. Halong Bay, in the Gulf of Tonkin, is known for its magnificent rock outcroppings. There are about 1600 huge rocks, some the size of mountains and others only a few meters long and a few meters tall. They are the result of a process that is termed “Karst.” Karst is the name of an area in what is now Slovenia where these types of structures were first identified and explained. They are the result of the receding of the ocean floor and erosion that took place over thousands of years. The limestone has been worn away leaving only the core area resulting in beautiful formations.

Halong Bay, Vietnam

Halong Bay, Vietnam

Halong Bay has been named as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Although most of these rocks are not large enough for people to live on, the bay has a large number of residents who live on floating homes. Their food is delivered to their porches by boat and their children are collected by boat to go to school.

Floating homes, Halong Bay

Floating homes, Halong Bay

Selling fruit on Halong Bay

Selling fruit on Halong Bay

On our tours of Vietnam, one of the loveliest experiences we have is lunch on board a boat as it cruises along Halong Bay. Because our tours are strictly kosher, we bring with us, of course, all of our own kitchen equipment (woks, knives, cutting boards, stirring implements, foil trays, foil for surfaces) and disposable utensils to eat with. On Halong Bay we enjoy very fresh fish. Below are our people watching as our boat stopped to be supplied with the freshest fish we ever ate!

Sailing on Halong Bay

Sailing on Halong Bay

Come with me! We leave on November 16!

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lijiang, China

I happen to think that Lijiang is one of the most magnificent cities in the world. It’s not just because the old city is made of finely carved wood and restored meticulously, it’s also because it lies amidst some of the most beautiful scenery in the world.

The focal point of the city is Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. It is a mountain that has numerous legends and for the local Naxi people whose language, Dongba, is the world’s last remaining pictographic language, it is a holy mountain. It is easy to see how this mountain would inspire awe. It has thirteen peaks and seems to resemble a dragon lying down. From afar, it is magnificent and a ride up the cable car to the point beyond which one may not climb is an amazing experience.

One way to enjoy this mountain is by viewing it from Black Dragon Pool Park. Without its magnificent views, the park would be well worth visiting because it is landscaped exquisitely and contains buildings and bridges and live music. Adjacent to the park is a museum of the Naxi people that houses all sorts of fascinating artifacts. A visit there is worthwhile if only to hear about the Dongba language and see how it works. You can also watch the embroidery of intricate silk ties. These ties take two months to embroider as complicated geometric designs are embroidered by hand with painstaking accuracy.

With the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the background, it is a most picturesque and impressive place to visit.

Here are some of the views.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (in background)

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (in background)

A closer view of the mountain

A closer view of the mountain

On the pond

On the pond

The other side of the bridge

The other side of the bridge

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Thien Mu Pagoda, Hue, Vietnam

There are many magnificent things to see in Hue, Vietnam’s former capital. Like China, Vietnam too had a Forbidden City for its rulers. Built in its own Vietnamese style, it is quite impressive and certainly the highlight of a trip to Hue. Parts of it are now undergoing reconstruction and restoration.

But no trip to Hue is complete without a cruise on the Perfume River. It is so named because of the fragrances of the plants and trees that line its banks. Here two views of the Perfume River, a place of enchantment.

Looking at the Perfume River, Hue, Vietnam

Looking at the Perfume River, Hue, Vietnam

A dreamscape

A dreamscape

The treat that comes at the end of the cruise, as if the calm waters and entertaining hostesses on the boat, selling silk pajamas, silk blouses, embroidered wall hangings, and carved wooden items weren’t enough– is the Thien Mu Pagoda.

Built in 1601 and then renovated in 1844, it is part of a Buddhist Temple complex that includes a huge 2000 kilogram bell. Legend has it that people used to see an old lady sitting on the hill where the pagoda now stands. She presumably said that a great leader will someday build a pagoda on this spot that would bring peace to the country. She then disappeared into a cloud. The pagoda’s name translates as “Heavenly Lady Pagoda.” The complex now houses young men who are learning to become Buddhist monks. The setting is calm and beautiful.

Approaching the pagoda

Approaching the pagoda

The pagoda actually is not straight, but leans back. So far, no one is talking about reinforcing it and the angle is barely noticeable.

Thien Mu Pagoda

Thien Mu Pagoda

A walk on the grounds is a reminder of the peace and calm that the monastic life has to offer. Join me on my next trip!

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Lion Grove Garden, Suzhou, China

A visit to a Chinese garden is an experience everyone should have. Chinese gardens are exciting and lush, while at the same time relaxing and inspiring. They are full of contradictions and full of surprises and mostly, full of beauty.

All traditional Chinese gardens share four elements: buildings, stones, water, and plants. Chinese gardens are a microcosm. The stones, collected for their sizes and shapes, sometimes put in creeks for a period of a year or two or three to refine their shapes, represent mountains. The ponds represent the seas. Unlike the gardens we see in Europe that consist chiefly of plants, these gardens combine the textures of plants and stone and wood and marble and stucco. Unlike the gardens of Europe that feature lots of flowers in brilliant colors, Chinese gardens are shades of green, colored by the leaves of their trees. Unlike European gardens which are manicured and symmetrical, Chinese gardens are wild looking and full of variety.

Today I will show you some pictures of the Lion Grove Garden in Suzhhou, China. Suzhou is known as a garden city or “Venice of the East.” Indeed, Marco Polo reputedly so named it. The city has canals like Venice and being poled through the canals of Suzhou is a uniquely beautiful experience. Suzhou is home to many magnificent gardens. The Lion Grove Garden is only one example. It once belonged to the grandparents of the noted architect, I. M. Pei. A visit there is something that can refresh and renew you for years.

A place of tranquility

A place of tranquility

A walkway in the garden

A walkway in the garden

Always new views

Always new views

Looking across the pond

Looking across the pond

A surprise view from a hole in a rock

A surprise view from a hole in a rock

A tranquil view of the pond and the walkway across it

A tranquil view of the pond and the walkway across it

Come join me in China for a tour of some magnificent gardens!

Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

One of the most fascinating places I have traveled is Tibet. Having gone to cities with progressively higher altitudes in the days before arriving in Tibet, the group was prepared for the rarefied air of Lhasa whose elevation is 3650 meters (11,975 feet) above sea level. Normally visitors are unable to tour on the first day there and must rest, but we “hit the ground running” much to the consternation of the local guide who thought he would have the afternoon and evening off.

I had many adventures in Lhasa and took a large number of photos. One of the most interesting places we visited while there was the Sera monastery. It was founded in 1419, during the Ming Dynasty and the name means “wild rose” in Tibetan. It was named Sera because the hills behind it were filled with wild roses at the time it was being built.

It may be only a coincidence, but the young monks who now study there wear robes that are rose colored. A study session of theirs is fascinating to watch. They gather outside, under the trees in dyads or triads. They refine their knowledge of their faith by asking questions of one another. The questioners stand and the answerers sit. If the answer is deemed good and satisfying based on the traditional sources, the questioners indicate that through a hand gesture signifying approval. If not, they continue to question. Questions are punctuated with slaps on the questioner’s arm. To the observer, it is a somewhat disconcerting sight. Some are standing, some are sitting, there is lots of noise as all of the dyads and triads are constantly speaking, and there is an unpredictable cacophony of slaps.

It is, however, both fascinating and beautiful. Here are a couple of images:

Monks at Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

Monks at Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

Monks sharing a moment at Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

Monks sharing a moment at Sera Monastery, Lhasa, Tibet

What you might not know about China

1. Most people think that because China is a populous country wherever you go there are hundreds of people. In fact, the streets of China are no more crowded than the streets of Jerusalem or Washington or London. In addition, the Chinese people love gardens and so there are vast gardens in the center of cities throughout China including Beijing and Shanghai. They are enjoyed by local residents as well as visitors and always feature a pond or larger body of water.

2. Many people think of China as a harsh place. In fact, the Chinese are friendly, welcoming people. They love visitors from overseas and they enjoy using whatever English they have to make conversation. They are warm and kind people.

3. People worry about anti-Semitism when they travel. They won’t find it in China. Chinese people think of Jews as the other great ancient civilization and they admire Jewish scholarship, ingenuity, and ambition. In fact, Chinese parents are very much like Jewish parents in that they value their children and they value educating their children and will sacrifice everything to give their children an excellent education.

4. People think of Chinese music as discordant. It is not so. Chinese music is many different things. It is Beijing Opera, but it is also the haunting flute melodies that one sometimes hears when walking through gardens. There is no place in my memory that rivals the gentle flute music in the Good Luck Garden in Hangzhou. Walking there was a truly spiritual experience.

The Good Luck Garden

The Good Luck Garden

Also, there are wonderful innovative Chinese artists like this one.

In short, China is better than you can imagine. It is the perfect place to travel. Come along with me!

Fireworks in Hanoi

The last time I visited Hanoi, we had come back from a side trip to Halong Bay, a most magnificent place that I will post about in the future. We spent the day touring the Temple of Literature, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum area, seeing the homes he lived in and the One Pillar Pagoda. After a cyclo ride around the old town,

Two cyclos in Hanoi

Two cyclos in Hanoi

we transported our people to a small hotel to have a chance for a shower and change of clothes before dinner and the overnight train to Lao Cai. After everyone was settled in their rooms or decided to take walks, I stayed in the lobby to get the address of the restaurant where we were to eat that night. I was then to take all of our equipment (pots, woks, cooking implements, knives, cutting boards, dishes, silverware, etc.) to the restaurant and work on the cooking of dinner.

As I stood in the lobby, all of a sudden, I saw a flash of sparks. It was already getting dark and it looked like nothing so much as fireworks. I looked to see where it was coming from. It was coming from the top of a utility pole down the block from the hotel. It was sparking like a giant cake decoration sparkler. I turned to the desk clerk and said, “Maybe you ought to call the electric company.” She just stood there. I said to my English speaking Vietnamese guide (we always have a local English speaking guide with us), “Perhaps she didn’t understand; the electric pole is sparking (everyone could see that– people in the street had stopped to watch) and if someone doesn’t come, it could make all of the power in the area go out.” He went to the desk clerk and she again did nothing.

By then, it was time for me to go to the restaurant, about a fifteen minute drive away. My guide stayed to load people onto the bus and bring them later to the restaurant.

The people at the restaurant were lovely and cooperative, something that we found to be true of every place we prepared food in Vietnam and Cambodia. They had the fresh fruits and vegetables waiting for me and the whole fish ready for my inspection. Although it was a busy kitchen, they set aside an adequate area covered with tinfoil for preparation of our food completely separate from the other food that was being prepared that evening.

When our people arrived about an hour later, they came with their story of an adventure: they had just gotten to the lobby and were about to leave when all of the lights went out– in the hotel, in the shops nearby, in the streets. Fortunately, they just proceeded to the bus, but they left the entire neighborhood in the dark.

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